Leading

Post by **Atl** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 12:17 am

How long did most of you take to start leading simple sport climbs? I started climbing on top rope in the middle of October. I have been climbing about 14 times since then. I have cleaned a route and rappelled down, but I have never done lead. I am thinking about leading a short 5.6 climb (that I have climbed about 3 times on top rope) tomorrow. What are your opinions on the level of experience required to do this?

Post by **michaelarmand** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 1:14 am

Go for it! Just make sure your belayer is experienced and checks that you don't backclip or anything else....

Post by **Myke Dronez** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 1:14 am

Sack up and lead it. I lead 10's now and started climbing in July, leading in August. Might as well learn to fall and get a good head on because ya can't TR forever. Some people act like lead climbing is the boogeyman...but we all know that you're only really climbing when you're leading. 8)

Post by **Myke Dronez** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 1:18 am

Well yes, that too- Make sure all safety checks are go. And don't forget about that sneaky 'z clip' on those closely bolted lines.

Post by **bcombs** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 1:35 am

I think the second time I went climbing ever I "lead" a route. I think I tried It's a wonderful life at Pistol Ridge and bailed, gripped with fear. Then, we went around the corner and climbed the Triceratops route. I can't believe more newbs haven't died at Pistol Ridge.

Just be careful, like everyone else said. Find someone experienced or take a course at Rock Quest here in Cincy. If you want quality instruction PM RRO to see if he can set you up with a private training course. It will be worth the money. Also, don't be afraid to ask for help if you are at the crag. Most climbers (I stress most not all) would be happy to put the draws up for you and hang around while you lead to offer beta while your climbing. The best bet though is getting instruction first. Don't be a dumb ass like me and chance it.

Post by **krampus** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 8:56 am

Luckily I had a safety Nazi with me, But I top roped one climb with a group 6 months prior, then my second time out I was rope gun for this other group, we did Mr. Bungle, Face up to that Crack, and Brother Stair. I continued to climb with that group for years, so I can honestly say that I have top roped probably fewer than 15 times outdoors, and most of those were to save time for cleaning. Since then I have made several climbing partners lead on their first day out, it usually scares the crap out of them, especially if its in January and their hands go numb, but ultimately, I think they appreciate it. Bottom line is, sack it up and go, but make sure you got a safety nazi with you.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 9:38 am

I was a gym rat for the first 8-10 months that I climbed, and most of that was at Climb Time, so leading didn't even cross my mind until I went to school at Miami and one of the guys there offered to teach me to lead. At the time, the policy was to be solid on at least low 10s before you started leading. Some people disagree with that school of thought, but I think it's a good one-- it means that outside, you won't need to start leading on ledgey 7s and 8s and risk breaking an ankle. You can jump on overhanging 10s, which have cleaner falls.

Post by **Josephine** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 10:24 am

i started leading on my second trip climbing outside. i recommend your belayer be Very Experienced. i would also have her hang the draws for you until you get comfy leading.

just remember that the vast majority of the easy routes in the red have dangerous falls. i certainly appreciate the school of thought that says "wait until you can lead 10's," but for me leading is so much more fun that I've always led the scary easy stuff. i've also taken a fair amt of nasty falls.

from your post - you're obviously heading out to climb with the rest of us are stuck at work. which route did you do? hope you had a great lead!

Post by **caribe** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 10:59 am

My first lead? I took a ~30' fall in a caving harness off a 5.10 climb while I was yarding out rope and clipping the anchors. My belayer had never belayed a climber before although he was familiar with rope from caving. He caught me on a rescue figure 8! We were beyond grumby! I read "On Rope 1" from cover to cover. I had been out top roping a couple times before. My fall was a wake up call; I needed more experience!
This is probably not the safest way to break into the sport.

I think one should practice falling before taking that screaming lead fall. Go out and have someone show you how to fall before you lead.

Post by **maggie** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 11:20 am

I'm a fan of the "faux lead" for a virgin sport lead. My first outdoor climbing trip was with a group that was much more experienced than myself, and they put me on Face Up to That Crack on a slightly slack toprope and had me clip up a lead rope as I went. It gave them a chance to check out what I was doing and give me advice while eliminating their fear of sewing-machine-leg spitting me off while clipping....and I was actually able to listen to what they were telling me instead of slipping into fear-activated tunnel vision. I say if you're just starting, live to climb another day...then you can begin to decide where you want your edge to be.