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Toproping through anchors

Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2003 2:34 am
by MiaRock
ok this weekend wes and i came upon a group of five boys (at least one of which was an experienced climber) about to set up a top rope through the anchors and we quickly told them to rethink that idea. then today a guy (old school tradie) put his girlfriend on tr on moonbean through the anchors because he didn't want to climb it again and was too lazy to show her how to clean (and from the conversation she was a well travelled climber). both groups were visitors from the northeast. now i have always been taught to climb on my own gear (common sense) but this isn't apparently the ethic in other areas. so shouldn't it be noted in in the guidebook or on rrgcc.org that in the red you tr on your own gear? plus the anchors on sunshine are worn again so i am going to start bringing some quick links with me because it will be my luck that the anchor pops with me on it.

mia

Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2003 2:37 am
by Steve
Preach on sister!
And if you see someone doing this again walk over to their stuff, pick up a draw, and whack them over the head with it!

Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2003 2:40 am
by MiaRock
i have no problem letting people know the ethic around here but i worry about the people i don't see particularly school/special groups.

mia

Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2003 2:49 am
by ynot
Realy big fat quiklinks on every 5.9 sport route should do the trick.No one person is going to school all the dumbasses out in the woods.

Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2003 2:55 am
by Wes
Really, then I guess the one on Fuzzy were just fine, and not worn nearly half way through. Even big fat qiuck links will wear through, much faster then you would think. Try this: Take a group out climbing, use a static line to TR through the same two biners all day. You will see real wear. The only solution is to have people TR with thier own gear, or two put in some heavy duty stuff, and replace it every year or so.

One or two people every once in a while, isn't so bad, but big groups really wear out hardware pretty quick.

Wes

Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2003 3:01 am
by Legion
With a dirty rope