There are two new bolts on 50 words for pump. These bolts are on the level of the regular 3rd and 4th bolt of the route and basically allow for a bypass of the crux. There is a new chalk line that splits of the real route at the third bolt, hits those two bolts, and then joins into the real route at the 5th bolt. Who drilled these bolts? Did they get permission from Hugh? Finally, when the route was sent, was it the real way, or the bypass way?
I feel like this is a scarring of the original line, which went straight up. Furthermore, the moves on the real line have been done, and there is no reason to put in a bypass. Does anyone know the story behind these new bolts? Are we renaming the route to "45 words for a dirty cheating frenchie?"
What happened to 50 words for pump?
here i go, getting into it without the whole story...
it is my understanding the line was done on the old bolts, but that people added the other ones later because it was scary/unsafe or something (?). they left the old ones up so the purists can still do it the sketchball way.
it is my understanding the line was done on the old bolts, but that people added the other ones later because it was scary/unsafe or something (?). they left the old ones up so the purists can still do it the sketchball way.
Courtesy of Andrew: "I don't think you will damage your escort unless she trips because she is so strung out on blow. Most people just take them to the rest area."
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the lurkist
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It was done the original way. In fact the dude didn't clip the crux bolt and climbed through. I heard second hand he said "I could either clip the bolt or send the route, but not both." He gets style points.
Subsequent sends moved out right. I have heard from Mike Doyle, who has done the route, that the moves are not any easier. He did ask me to add the additional bolts. I told him that I couldn't really take a stand as I don't have a dog in the fight/ prob not climbing on it any tiime before I turn fifty.
If you have strong feelings, you are a local, do what you think is right. It is the community's route. Get Mike's input. He is a good and reasonable guy.
Subsequent sends moved out right. I have heard from Mike Doyle, who has done the route, that the moves are not any easier. He did ask me to add the additional bolts. I told him that I couldn't really take a stand as I don't have a dog in the fight/ prob not climbing on it any tiime before I turn fifty.
If you have strong feelings, you are a local, do what you think is right. It is the community's route. Get Mike's input. He is a good and reasonable guy.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Normie
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the lurkist
- Posts: 2240
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm
I would like to add a historical note- Everyone who has gotten on fifty words (that I am aware of) has commented on the third and fourth bolts that they are hard to clip. I have encouraged Bill Ransey, Dave Hume, Andrew Gearing, etc to find a better spot for them. My original placements aren't sacrosanct. Mike D. did find a better spot, and I encouraged him to move them. Furthermore, I encouraged him to remove the old bolts. If they are wrong, they are wrong.
Big surprise that on a really hard route when subjected to scrutiny new and better sequences are found, better clipping stances are found, etc...
This is the quality control we have all been talking about. No route is immune.
Thanks Mike.
Big surprise that on a really hard route when subjected to scrutiny new and better sequences are found, better clipping stances are found, etc...
This is the quality control we have all been talking about. No route is immune.
Thanks Mike.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Normie
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Pru