Sport route distribution in the Red.

[caribe]

On the Y axis we have number of routes. On the X axis we have route grade. I got this information by doing online searches here and limiting my queries to sport routes.
Below I write out a few reflections on this information. I invite other reflections and scathing criticism of my own.

1) There were more 5.10 grades at one point in time and many of these smacked of today's 5.11 difficult. Over time the peak of the distribution shifted to 5.11 and 5.12. The 5.12 of today is more difficult than yesterday's 5.10.
2) People climbing at the 5.11-5.12 grades have more fun at the red... kind of like blondes. there are more routes to choose from.
3) Given today's tech this distribution is a fairly accurate reflection of human ability and interest irrespective of grade. Even though the X axis slides right or left with grade inflation or the tendency to sandbag to fight inflation, the population distribution over the routes that the grades describe represent the native human ability of serious climbers. There is no reason to bolt it if no one climbs it. So the distribution reflects developer opinion about how hard people climb, not necessarily the beauty of lines that would be perhaps climbable by 10% of the climbing community. I got this distinct impression from Sharma et. al. pointing out unbolted lines at Bob Marley crag.

<img src="http://home.insightbb.com/~a.cammers/im ... bution.jpg">
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[pawilkes]

well maybe sharma should pick up a bolt gun and do some fuckin' work

[512OW]

Caribe, you have too much free time.

[the lurkist]

Thanks for pointing out that we suck. (like we needed to be told).

[ashtray]

this is due to the nature of the rock. It overhangs and so most of the good rock yields 11 and harder. in the ten range, you are more likely to be practicing your ledge surmounting skills (intro the heap factor). there would be harder stuff i am sure, but nobody that doesn't suck lives here. and btw, probably 10% or more likely less of the total population of climbers are even getting on the measly 13s.

nice right skewed bell shaped curve though. and good to see it is unimodal. I really hate bimodal distributions (case in point - the average on my first exam this semester or the IQ of republicans).

[dipsi]

I thought I didn't understand this because I was blonde and right brained. Now I know it's because I'm a Republican.

I feel much better.

[ynot]

Nah ,It's just that the bolters are climbing 11's and 12's and that's what they want to bolt

[pawilkes]

Nah ,It's just that the bolters are climbing 11's and 12's and that's what they want to bolt

and honestly who can blame them? people bitching about there not being enough hard routes are probably not the developing new ones.

[ashtray]

Nah ,It's just that the bolters are climbing 11's and 12's and that's what they want to bolt

No offense Trad Daddy, but i disagree. Have you been on any 10 or under recently? they do not compare in quality to the harder stuff for sure. When I walk up to most easy walls I feel really underwhelmed which is not the case when I perv other stone around here.

I really feel for the beginner climbers here because most of the routes they are going on you would not want to fall as the likelihood of hitting a ledge of some sort is greatly increased. I have been cleaning up some of the newer easier things here recently and quite frankly they aren't Super Awesome (bolting good, etc. it is just the rock). Granted there are some really good tens and a fewer easier things, but generally the rock yields far superior 11-13 routes (as for 14s - i couldn't say). And if there was some RAD 70 foot overhanging 10a/9+ (or even easier) with all dinner plates (or whatever it would take to make an overhanging climb easy)then it would definitely get bolted. Hardman Kip (or maybe that old softie Tackett) would've bolted it years ago even though they climb much harder. Besides, the easier stuff tends to get dirty or have more rotten rock due to the angle.

[Pangea]

I agree with 5120W - Caribe has too much free time - otherwise, why would he do this analysis when he could be participating in more fun and important things like 1) climbing 2) writing new chemistry exams 3) doing more constructive things like...say...constructing a door for his laundry room??? Guy needs MORE to do!