The Judge is in the house! (or the return of peer review)

Innocent subjects that took a turn for the worst.
Da Judge
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Nov 07, 2007 8:09 am

The Judge is in the house! (or the return of peer review)

Post by Da Judge »

OK dorks, Here is how it is going to be.
It used to be that if you botched a route or left one covered in sand and other crap, the community would nicely (or otherwise) clue you in to the fact that you had screwed the pooch. You (the FAer) either changed/improved your tactics and methods or the shit storm would never stop. Ever wonder why Jeff Hughes and Keith Moll only did a few new routes in the Red? There used to be very few "bad" sport routes in the Red because of this system. FA teams learned that their final product was up for review and that they better bring their game if they wanted to avoid getting slammed.
The peer review process is not working. You people are just too fucking nice!
The glad handers are all too happy just to say "great job" when they should be saying "why the fuck didn't you brush that heap?" or "Damn, all those bolts are in the wrong spots, what are you stupid?" or "Do you have some sort of neverending supply of energy and bolting gear, why the fuck did you bolt that thing?"
I for one am sick of it.
So, I will be removing any route that I deem to be of substandard quality.
The bolts will be unscrewed and removed. The hangers will be held hostage and the bolts themselves placed in a baggie and taped to the anchor along with a brush, broom or battery operated vacumm cleaner (depending on the level of heapitude).
I will be holding onto the hangers. This way, the shit talk is held to a minimum and the FA party quietly encouraged to do the work that they should have done in the first place. All the while, the route will be cease to exist thusly preventing the unsuspecting cragsman of having the displeasure of ascending the offending pile. Instead of hearing "Yeah The Red has some nice routes." we will once again hear "All of the sport routes in The Red are worth doing".
"Who made you king of shit pile?" you might ask. Me, that's who! There will be no fucking commitee or board of directors to interfere with my activities. Nor will there be anyone to appeal to. Do a shite route and it will go away. Simple.
First on the list of routes to be dealt with are these things at Curbside and The Shire.
ATTENTION FA PARTIES!!!!
Clean your routes or they will be subject to my wrath. Not every inch of stone needs to be bolted. You are not doing anyone any favors or the community a service if your routes suck. If your route is removed and you decide that you want it back, go clean the thing and then let me know (I can be reached via email at <<thisrouteisaheap>>. I will then return the hangers and you can bask in the glory of a job well done. If you choose to reinstall a new set of hangers, so be it. The old ones will become part of my newest, classic, 5 star creation and I will erase your now reinstalled route at my leisure.

Pigsteak, your routes seem to be ok. You can just chill and stay the fuck out of this.
I do have certain reservations about Amarrillo Sunset but due to the fact that it is on a shady wall and the lichens grow back real fast here in KY I will try to over look the botch job anchor placement and gay name. However you are on notice! No more faggotty western motif names.
Tackett, Bateman, and the rest of you Hoosiers, clean your routes (now or later, I really don't give fuck)!

Disclaimer: No routes in Muir Valley will be subject to my judgement since I don't care what happens there.
Bringin' back craftsmanship to The Red!
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der uber
Posts: 1044
Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2006 2:42 am

Post by der uber »

Since we're on cleaning, I would also like to mention that the crags themselves need better cleaning. I mean, there's dirt everywhere! Somebody schlep a broom and dustpan up there and get crackin'.
KD
Posts: 3155
Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 1:21 am

clean

Post by KD »

nobody has even picked up a rake at the murray property all fall and leaves are everywhere!
Meadows
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Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 4:03 pm

Post by Meadows »

Ghey.

"Whaaa! Whaaa!" cries the old schooler waxing romantic about the old days.
Last edited by Meadows on Wed Nov 07, 2007 9:36 am, edited 2 times in total.
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p0bray01
Posts: 482
Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2005 8:05 pm

Post by p0bray01 »

He'd hate some of the trad climbing out there.
"The Mountains are my church and climbing is how I worship" - Tommy Caldwell
Wes
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Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Re: The Judge is in the house! (or the return of peer review

Post by Wes »

Heh, it is one thing to rag on route development, but another thing to call Tackett a hoosier. Those there are fightin' words!
Da Judge wrote: Tackett, Bateman, and the rest of you Hoosiers, clean your routes (now or later, I really don't give fuck)!
.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
gus
Posts: 144
Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 8:22 pm

Post by gus »

Tacket Bateman and the rest of the hoosiers draw a lot of water in this town. You don't draw shit, Da Judge. Now we got a nice, quiet little beach community here, and I aim to keep it nice and quiet. So let me make something plain. I don't like you sucking around, bothering our citizens, Da Judge. I don't like your jerk-off name. I don't like your jerk-off face. I don't like your jerk-off behavior, and I don't like you, jerk-off. Do I make myself clear?
successfully beating anorexia
Da Judge
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Joined: Wed Nov 07, 2007 8:09 am

Post by Da Judge »

You're out of your element gus.
Bringin' back craftsmanship to The Red!
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SCIN
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Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:19 pm

Post by SCIN »

When the routes are removed, do I have to deduct points and remove them from everyone's spray lists? Shit.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
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ynot
Posts: 6432
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:02 am

Post by ynot »

p0bray01 wrote:He'd hate some of the trad climbing out there.
90% of the trad anyway.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
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