Bouldering or Short bouldery Sport Routes

Post by **jemerson** » Fri Oct 26, 2007 5:15 pm

I was wondering if there are any hard boulder problems in the Red (besides Ghetto Methods) or boulder problem projects. I was also wondering about the best short routes in the 5.13+ and up range. I have seen Nagypapa and am interested in things like that. Maybe there are some projects? or new routes that have gone in during the Rock Trip? I maybe in the area soon and was just trying to gather information. thanks!

Post by **Andrew** » Sat Oct 27, 2007 12:40 pm

Milf money is bouldery
Second nature
Shiva
mazy mae
The nothing

Post by **schwagpad** » Sun Oct 28, 2007 8:02 pm

Quantum Narcissist
Thanatopsis

Bring a boltgun. That kind of route tends to get overlooked, but they're out there.

Post by **itmeansgod** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 3:04 am

There are two really really hard boulder problems in Kentucky that I know of, but neither of them is in the Gorge. Both are either undone or have seen one ascent, but I don't really know. I know them as "the dave prow" and "the dave seam" because I've heard about both that Dave Hume either worked them or sent them. the dave prow is near the clack mt. bouldering area near Morehead, and the dave seam is in the area that we call sharkey's also near morehead. I'd give them both double digits but past that i can only speculate.

Post by **anticlmber** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:24 am

short routes and the red, good luck.

Post by **mcrib** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 10:38 am

There are a few areas near the red with good bouldering and by near I mean a 5 hour drive.

Post by **itmeansgod** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 2:44 pm

if you want really hard, really high quality, try the back area of Little Rock City. There's a v13, a project that bouted Tony Lamiche, and a problem that's too hard to even really seriously attempt, all within about 50 feet of eachother.

Post by **jemerson** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 4:36 pm

i just happen to be stopping at the red for a couple days. I am very familiar with the other bouldering in the south, lrc, HP40, etc. I know the red is "not that good for bouldering" but you never know. I would love directions to Morehead and those problems Dave may or may not have done. thanks everyone for the beta

Post by **schwagpad** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 12:38 pm

I'm trying to think which ones are my seam and my prow. I think the one time I went to morehead I didn't even put on my climbing shoes (not too inspired). I think the best bouldering in Kentucky is around Big South Fork and Cumberland falls.

It's really not that there are no short bouldery routes to be done in the red. It's just that noone sees them or noone is psyched enough to bolt them. Someone could have a blast finding that kind of route and putting them up.

Post by **itmeansgod** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 2:48 pm

http://utk.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3 ... d=12900161

That's the seam.

http://utk.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3 ... d=12900161

That's the only picture I have of the prow. Not very helpful I realize. Send me a pm with when you're going to be here and I'll try to make it out there with you. I think I met you in SLC with Max.