Ratings are for gumbies anyway

Post by **dlewis101** » Tue Apr 08, 2003 4:05 pm

Ok, so I'll put my flame suit on for this one

I've been reading all these "this climbs 12a, no it's 11d" BS on this board and all I gotta say is, who cares? You like the climb, do it! Is it hard, easy, whatever? The real question is, is it fun? If people are arguing over ratings, they're missing the point. Rating used to be so people had a "general" idea as to how hard a climb was before they attempted it. Now ratings only seem to be for the spray factor.

"Dude, i sent Ro and it was hard 12, yo!"
"No way dude, it's only 11d. You must be a lame gumby to think it's 12!"

Uh, who cares...

Just one guys humble opinion.

Post by **Legion** » Tue Apr 08, 2003 4:36 pm

Ratings are for every climber that strives to climb harder. Having a way to quantify your progress is important if you are working toward a goal. Almost all climbers want to improve and set goals for themselves. If you really want to reach that goal then you need to have some stepping stones along the way. How do you quantify that without ratings?

It sounds to me like you have just been sprayed. You'll build up immunity after awhile. Keep in mind that most of this spray comes from people that climb way too much indoors. What else is there to talk about when you are climbing a 35' plastic wall?

Post by **andy_lemon** » Tue Apr 08, 2003 4:48 pm

I think your missing the big picture here... most people think the Red's routes are overrated, so when they pinkpoint their new hardest tick they go back to Miguel's and spray about how Ro was only 11d, not a 12.

Post by **SCIN** » Tue Apr 08, 2003 5:04 pm

Most of the questions related to ratings were asked by me so the online guidebook could be more accurate.

Post by **StephyG** » Tue Apr 08, 2003 5:37 pm

Ratings help to let people know what routes they CAN have fun on. Routes can be very deceiving from the ground. A little extra info can keep those who are pushing themselves safe.

Post by **dlewis101** » Tue Apr 08, 2003 5:49 pm

Ok, I'll accept those arguments, especially about the online guide book. Ratings have always been suggestive to me, anyway. I agree that some 11s are easier than some 10s, etc.

About the Red's ratings being soft, I don't think so. Maybe just different. At the Red, you have a 60foot overhung 5.12 with decent holds but at Rifle the 5.12s are maybe not as overhung but the hold are worse.

I will say that when I was at Red Rocks, the 11s and 12s there seemed easier than the Red, but there was a 10a that kicked my ass!

Post by **Don McGlone** » Tue Apr 08, 2003 6:25 pm

Hey dlewis101,
I think that 60 ft. overhanging 5.12 you're talking about is really 11d.

Post by **Steve** » Tue Apr 08, 2003 9:11 pm

There is nothing wrong with ratings, only the people who missuse them.

Post by **CPower** » Tue Apr 08, 2003 9:53 pm

I give this thread 6 of a possible 10 points on the ratings scale.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Apr 08, 2003 10:23 pm

Ratings keep gumbies from getting in over thier head. They cant judge a route by looking at it.That takes experience. Especialy for begining trad.