important question
Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 9:30 pm
Can it ever be considered acceptable to say you sent a route, but did it with the fourth bolt stick clipped.
Just wondering.
Just wondering.
Page 1 of 7
Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 10:01 pm
Oh you sent it. On TR.
Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 10:13 pm
Hell no. No way in hell. Unless the Lexington/Cincy social club considers it "OK"
Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 10:53 pm
I agree with on TR. Thats the whole of it. Or if the first 3 bolts are missing...
Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 11:17 pm
c'mon, that seems to be the fad these days. second bolt or more clipped and that's acceptable. on some routes maybe, but i have seen it on more and more that don't really need it. Faggotry.
Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 11:43 pm
Andrew, I assume you're talking about 50 Bucks since a couple of guys sent it fairly quickly this weekend and you're bitter about it. You probably stick clipped the 3rd. Is that any better?
Many people stick clip the 4th bolt on 50 Bucks (1st bolt isn't even used). I just found this out so I did it too. I would have no problem skipping it and clipping it at my waist though if anyone had a problem with it. I just did what everyone else was doing. Yea, it's ghey. Like I said, if I ever do it over again I'll probably just skip it like the 100 other routes in the Red where you skip a bolt. Dirty Smelly Hippie, Golden Touch, and Spank (Tika Monster) come to mind.
If you don't skip it you have to climb way left then back right but if you skip it it's not a grounder and you can clip it at your waist. The line of least resistance ended up trending right after the line was bolted. If anything the bolt should be moved for anyone who doesn't want to skip it. Big deal. It's a cool line and that's all that matters. Climb it and move on.
How about the 3rd bolt on Wild Gift? I've never seen anyone clip that. Or the 2nd bolt on Skin Boat? 2nd bolt on Strevels? Come on guys, what is acceptable? How about hanging long draws to make a clip easier? Where is the line drawn? Do you draw the line at what you've done and call it okay? Probably.
Oh yea, and I'm pretty sure Andrew probably goes straight up from the 4th bolt on 50 Bucks since he's taller so he probably stick clipped the 2nd or 3rd. Is that any better? Shit, it's only 5.12c anyway. Skip the bolt, 5.12c. Clip the bolt and go straight up, 5.12c if you're tall. Clip the bolt then move back right, 5.12d.
Ethics are out the window guys. This is sport climbing. Anything under 5.14 is just practice anyway.
Many people stick clip the 4th bolt on 50 Bucks (1st bolt isn't even used). I just found this out so I did it too. I would have no problem skipping it and clipping it at my waist though if anyone had a problem with it. I just did what everyone else was doing. Yea, it's ghey. Like I said, if I ever do it over again I'll probably just skip it like the 100 other routes in the Red where you skip a bolt. Dirty Smelly Hippie, Golden Touch, and Spank (Tika Monster) come to mind.
If you don't skip it you have to climb way left then back right but if you skip it it's not a grounder and you can clip it at your waist. The line of least resistance ended up trending right after the line was bolted. If anything the bolt should be moved for anyone who doesn't want to skip it. Big deal. It's a cool line and that's all that matters. Climb it and move on.
How about the 3rd bolt on Wild Gift? I've never seen anyone clip that. Or the 2nd bolt on Skin Boat? 2nd bolt on Strevels? Come on guys, what is acceptable? How about hanging long draws to make a clip easier? Where is the line drawn? Do you draw the line at what you've done and call it okay? Probably.
Oh yea, and I'm pretty sure Andrew probably goes straight up from the 4th bolt on 50 Bucks since he's taller so he probably stick clipped the 2nd or 3rd. Is that any better? Shit, it's only 5.12c anyway. Skip the bolt, 5.12c. Clip the bolt and go straight up, 5.12c if you're tall. Clip the bolt then move back right, 5.12d.
Ethics are out the window guys. This is sport climbing. Anything under 5.14 is just practice anyway.
Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 12:14 am
Dang... Rays drunk. 
You mean the 2nd on Wild Gift, right?
You mean the 2nd on Wild Gift, right?
Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 8:28 am
Awesome reply by Ray. Let it go at that.
Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 10:16 am
actually mr. guidbook author, i do not skip bolts on any of those 1st 3 routes, and i only stick clip the 1st bolt on all of those routes. don't be such a faggot ass pussy scin.SCIN wrote:...Dirty Smelly Hippie, Golden Touch, and Spank (Tika Monster) come to mind...
How about the 3rd bolt on Wild Gift? I've never seen anyone clip that. Or the 2nd bolt on Skin Boat? 2nd bolt on Strevels? Come on guys, what is acceptable? How about hanging long draws to make a clip easier? Where is the line drawn? Do you draw the line at what you've done and call it okay? Probably.
Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 10:40 am
Yes you do, I have it on tape.