RRC Archives

Speaking of bad anchors...

I went to put anchors on a new route I did at Emerald City quite a while ago...

Thunderstorm chased me off and in my haste I bungled both bolt holes. (Forgot to blow out the dust and tried to slam the bolts in anyway. They hang out about 1/4 inch or so.)

I've always meant to get back up there. I mean, nobody is going to climb it (even though it may be the best fingercrack dihedral in the Red.)

Piggie was gonna help me, but he's a busy guy puttin in bolts I can clip.

If somebody wants to go up and fix the anchors... soon.... I'll provide hardware and give great directions on how to rap in from the top ... then I'll donate $100 to the Team Suck bolting fund.

Otherwise, I'll get there sometime. Hopefully somebody will have to leave a nice #3 camalot to bail from before then....

You can cross off Nobody, I've been on it. It's a very nice line. I solo-toproped it one day I was there to solo-toprope Friable.

What type of bolt did you use? Is it possible to pull them out and blow out the dust then put back in and tighten down or are they fixed for good?

Damn... that'd be a scary toprope solo. Its at least 30 degrees overhanging and has no top anchor... other than one half in bolt.

If you can get the sleeves out then it might be all good. I'm not so sure they'll come out though...

It was a challenging rap down to set it up for a toprope on both climbs but I was well armed that day plus a few tricks. I couldn't imagine leading Friable. You can place just enough gear to keep you into the wall and keep the toprope safe. There are many **** sections in the gorge that can be done that way. They neither go to the ground nor top out cleanly but classic nonetheless.

I will try to fix it and take a photo if I can. I have a few vacation days to burn off before the end of the year and those two would be fun to do again.