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Open Project

Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 12:05 am
by Bashie
Bolts were installed about 2 years ago at a wall in Muir Valley. I am too weak to climb it. Check it out, take off the red ribbon and send it somebody.
1) hike to the great wall in Muir Valley
2) hang a left at the base of the great wall and hike for 5 minutes, following the trail along the cliff.
3) Chase the bolts up the line of weakness on the obvious, intimidating wall: 45 feet of bouldery funk up to a dirty hueco. Climb out the 15 foot roof, yarding on large flakes. Continue up 30 feet of easier climbing to the anchors.

Notes: 1) bring a 200' cord (pretty sure this is long enough)
2) there might be hideous rope drag after the roof - might have to add anchors. 3) bring a brush - I scrubbed for an hour or two, but there may be a dirty hold somewhere. Belayer should avoid potential rock fall hazards. I'm guessing it's about 5.13a and worth the hike.

Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 6:47 am
by weber
Please check in with us before working on this project. There are some approach trail and base issues to resolve first.

Rick

Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 7:45 am
by Andrew
You need to do a better job of selling it.

45 feet of stellar bouldering up bullet rock to a perfect hueco. Climb 15 feet out a roof on bomber flakes, and then continue up easier but 6 star moves to the top.

See, thats much better.

Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 8:19 am
by kirker
Andrew, Andrew, Andrew.

You forgot the most important part.

"Should go 13a if the crucial holds don't break."

You can't forget the spray man. :wink:

Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 11:03 am
by the lurkist
I'm Lovin It!

Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 9:30 pm
by Bashie
I guess that was a lame sales job. Yeah, what Andrew said. It is a spray-worthy wall - this is probably the easiest line on it, with lots of futuristic routes next door. Please PM Rick Weber to work on this route. I think the route is fully equipted, and ready to go, but please talk to him (landowner extrordinaire) if you plan on working the route.

Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 10:07 am
by Horatio Felacio
i just sent it yesterday. super classic .12+. thanks for bolting it bashie!

Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 6:27 pm
by Bashie
Excellent work, Horatio! Man that was quick. You are my hero. Bet that roof was fun. Now bolt a line just to the left: same start, then go left before the pristine hueco. Can't believe it was only 5.12....man I suck.