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Passive Rack Part II (Routes)

Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 5:35 pm
by abock33
Staying toipc of my last post.( the one about the all passive rack)

I'm looking for routs that can go all passive. Anything up to 5.9

If possible list Route Grade and wall. I'm going down this weekend and I'm looking for a place to learn where I won't be bugging all who can climb trad. I realize that I probably could have searched this topic but I can't get the search to work how I want it to.

Update to all: I also no longer have an all passive rack. I recently bought all the cams I could afford a #'s 1 & 2 BD C4's

Let me know what's out there
Thanks

Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 5:39 pm
by ynot
I know Calypso 2 goes well,all passive. Seems like I did something else on passive ,just can't remember what route it was.

Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 7:10 pm
by john e aragon
Dude look in the guide, if it was sent in the 70's or in the very early 80's then chances are very good it went passive. NO MAtter What The Grade Is! Cams have not been around that long.

Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 8:34 pm
by Evan
Passivism is not something to hide behind, dude. I dabbled in passivism myself once, not in Nam of course.

Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 10:16 pm
by 512OW
Every 5.9 in the Red can go all passive if you're strong enough.

90% of them can go passive without much issue.

I've done Africa all passive... Andromeda Strain goes all passive... Crack Attack would be about the toughest 9 I can think of in the Red to do all passive, and its a pile anyway....

Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 10:16 pm
by abock33
john e aragon wrote:Dude look in the guide, if it was sent in the 70's or in the very early 80's then chances are very good it went passive. NO MAtter What The Grade Is! Cams have not been around that long.
Good point I didn't think about that.

Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 11:47 pm
by L K Day
A short list of good, some great, routes that go all passive. All done prior to 1979.

Arachnid 5.8
Africa 5.9
Curving Crack 5.8
Dog Days 5.8
Devine Climb 5.8
Frenchburg Overhangs 5.8
Diamond in the Crack 5.6
Foxfire 5.7
Copperhead 5.6
G.I. 5.7
Full Moon 5.7
Rip-Off 5.6
Good Tang 5.7
Layback Crack 5.8
The Underling 5.9
Party Time 5.7
Calypso 5.6
Snake 5.8
St. Alfonso's 5.7

In the fall of '79 I went back to Kentucky to visit family and climb with my old buddies, Seibert, Pearsall and Becker. I had one each of Friends # 1,2 & 3. We did a bunch of lines that we'd had our eyes on for years, and things were never the same after that. Pearsall, Hackworth & Smith, particularly, got a fire lit under them. Then in the early '80s Koenig & Souders started to tear it up. I know I left some people out, but those above were among the early influential traddies. Then Porter lead the next revolution.

Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 10:54 pm
by ecp88
In the past few weeks I've been on Arachnid, Africa, Diamond in the Crack, and Good Tang and had bomber stopper and hex placements on all of them. They are classic routes and I like the option of placing a passive piece in lieu of active. I've not led them all passive however, just had a fun time with the passive pieces I did place. Arachnid and Good Tang are prolly the most fun.

Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 12:11 am
by Saxman
Did Father and Son today all passive. Quite fun to leave the cams on the ground.

Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 7:26 am
by ynot
Good Tang just rocks. I like it better than Roadside Attraction. Did you do the final chimney to the top?