Buzzards roost Pro

Post by **p0bray01** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:41 pm

Hey I was thinking on doing the routes at Buzzards roost....are there any gear suggestions you guys have, save for the normal stuff? I mean Can I get by with one 5 and one 6 camalot of do I need doubles and more big stuff?

Post by **ynot** » Sat Aug 18, 2007 5:48 pm

A 5 and a 6 should do you. I used a 4 and a 5 bro on the 5.7 but I think you can find other pro. doubles on the fist sizes would be good. Buzzards North is a sweet line. Belay in the rockhouse, 2 pitches .I might be there on Sunday if I can talk my friend into it.

Post by **ynot** » Sat Aug 18, 2007 6:05 pm

If your thinking about the 5.4, forget it. one look should change your mind. I will climb anything so I started up it. I bailed over to the 7 after the first pitch. It was horrid. Looked like route finding on it could get you in hot water too. Aside from that buzzards is a very cool forgotten crag with awesome exposure, easy approach and no crowds.

Post by **spuzo** » Sat Aug 18, 2007 6:10 pm

Ynot - Is that where we got stuck for awhile after looking for the lost piece of your big bro? That first pitch from the ground was so sketch - slingin weeds along that ledge...ah but it was fun!

Post by **ynot** » Sat Aug 18, 2007 6:15 pm

Yup, one of many sketchy traverses. I thought you were gonna tell the exploding big bro story.

Post by **spuzo** » Sat Aug 18, 2007 7:44 pm

well - see Ynot "altered" his big bro - the smallest of them - for purposes he can tell you about at a later time...and forgot to put the pin back in before we climbed. We rapped in from above, but not all the way to the ground, doing just the last two pitches of the climb. As I cleaned gear off the first pitch, I slid the bro shut and went to clip it to my harness using just one hand...well, since there was no pin to lock it after closing it...the center piece shot to the ground spings and stuff flying everywhere. We got back to the top alright and decided to come back the next day to rap to the ground and look for the gear. After getting to the ground and finding the lost parts successfuly, we realized that getting back up was looking rather difficult. We scanned the entire bottom edge of the cliff looking for alternative routes but ended up with Ynot climbing to a sketchy ledge and traversed A LOT of feet over to where we had started the day before, slinging weeds, grass and small twigs that might some day be trees along the way on this dirty manky ledge. If i came off the ledge I was gonna swing BIG into the cliff to my left and go splat much like a cartoon character would.
BUT we made it and it was a blast. The hike in is really nice and easy and the view is spectacular. Just don't lose your bros.

Post by **Wolf** » Sat Aug 18, 2007 8:39 pm

Ynot, did you turn your big bro into a lil bong?

Post by **ynot** » Sat Aug 18, 2007 9:58 pm

I wish every one coulda seen the look on Spuzos face when that bro went "boing!"
priceless. It was like when a kid opens one of those snakes in a box. video. that's what it needed.
Oh yea I remeber now. The roof on the first pitch of that 5.7 was always soaking wet and it's the crux. you might want to check it before leading it cause it grows moss and it really sucked trying to send that thing when it was wet. The rest of the route is good.

Post by **p0bray01** » Sun Aug 19, 2007 11:41 am

Thanks for the advice. What about the 5.8 line? It has one more star than the 7. Nice stories about the bro.

So I am guessing the routes are mostly fist and offwidth?

Post by **ynot** » Sun Aug 19, 2007 12:16 pm

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... ic_id=1783
They both have a bit of everything. They get wide near the top but there's plenty face holds, so no need for OW technique.