RRC Archives

39. Shaggy 5.10a (S)
Walk just around the corner to the left of Scooby Snack to locate this bolted line. Climb rotten rock to a small roof. Pull the roof then continue up shaggy rock to the top. Cold shuts. Slab. 75 ft. Stays dry: Does not stay dry.
FA: John Bronaugh, 2002.


Ray it looks like you forgot the stars!!

rhino,

what happened was that the shaggy galaxy contained so many stars that it imploded and produced a black hole filled with lichen and sand.

SCIN and I were going to climb Shaggy on Sunday because we thought it was Dip Stick (sweet route, BTW). Within three bolts he took off three pieces of rock and everything he touched seemed like it was about to crumble. I had already decided I wasn't going to lead it when I heard SCIN say, "Screw this! It's nothing but shaggy moss up here!". He down climbed and we went to warm up on something else. Soon the revelation hit: That must've been the infamous Shaggy! Aw man, you all weren't kidding with the criticism of that thing.

Johnny - Go remove the bolts from that thing and do it now.

criticism?

how dare you? ya'll are juss wusses who have no technique for the chossy stuff. You climb your off-width, but that doesn't prepare you for having to pull as hard as you can on a hold without actually applying any pressure to it. This requires some skills. How can you dis a route as a sandpile just because you didn't like it. That's like saying Muscle Shoals is a crappy sandbag route just because it's deadly torture.

I mean, the cool thing about Shaggy is that it's different every time. New sandy holds appear just as old ones break off. Then there's that serene move on the vertical beach just below the roof that reminds me of climbing up scree (cool, just like the mountains). Then that sweet roof where you must do the aforementioned moves without actually weighting the holds, but also, kinda like Indiana Jones and the last Crusade, you must "choose wisely" which hold is the real thing and which one is going to make you scream and melt.

Then you get to dig through lichen to find edges and more choss! It's precious. You just have to have the right techniques and attitude man. WWAD? What Would Arno Do? He would say it was a great place to learn to fall because you don't have to think about it. You just naturally fall off as holds break around you! WOW. A true classic

Johnny, leave it up man... for those who understand.

and you obviously shouldn't try Hooky Pals. It's probably even MORE CLASSIC!

Thanks for showing me the light, JB. What was I thinking

Preach on Borther JB....Amen!

WWAD I love it!

I still say there's a good route under all that stuff. Just wait til I brush it.

Or drill it.

DOH