BOHICA beta
Posted: Tue May 22, 2007 8:52 pm
I was pretty tired trying out this route, but I didn't think I'd have trouble at the beginning given that the guidebook says the first part is like 5.12a and people have commented on the whole climb being V3.
I had trouble between the 3rd and 4th bolt - the heavily chalked areas suggest I make a big move (for my height) to a patch of small pockets to the left. I stuck the most positive feeling pocket patch with two fingers, then moved to a high small pocket with my right hand. At that point, either my left fingers slip out of the pocket, or I have too much momentum going into the high right pocket and bounce off it.
Am I missing something here? Should I pinch the patch of pockets?
I had trouble between the 3rd and 4th bolt - the heavily chalked areas suggest I make a big move (for my height) to a patch of small pockets to the left. I stuck the most positive feeling pocket patch with two fingers, then moved to a high small pocket with my right hand. At that point, either my left fingers slip out of the pocket, or I have too much momentum going into the high right pocket and bounce off it.
Am I missing something here? Should I pinch the patch of pockets?