going to lion's head over memorial day. does anyone have beta? especially good craigs w/varied difficulties. i lead 8's and easy 9's - the people i'm going with are much, much stronger - would be nice if i could lead a route or two and they could have fun on the hard stuff.
also - what's the camping like? is there a miguels/rogers type place or is it more like rocktown?
thanks
Lion's Head - Beta Needed
Lion's Head - Beta Needed
"Unthinkably good things can happen, even late in the game." ~ Under the Tuscan Sun
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mossey oak
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2004 1:56 am
my wife and I went 3 years ago....the best routes are the ones you have to rappel in from the top. route finding can be difficult, so going with a local is a plus. also leaving a static line hanging in case you get in over your head is a good idea. well worth the drive though. enjoy.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
There is a campground right in the town of Lion's Head, right next to the Lion Head Inn B&B. Camping right on the Georgian Bay, hard to beat. Might want to call ahead and make a reservation. The "scene" for me was chillin' at the bar that is 25 yards away, swilling canadian beer. It's not a dry county like at the Red. Might want to spend a day at Old Baldie on your way in or out. No view of the Georgian Bay, but superb routes abound. Eat a big bowl of wheeties when you get up in the morning!!
I wasn't such a big fan of the town camp ground, but early in the season like US Memorial Day, it may be pretty quiet. (Minus - a bit 'exposed' and can be noisy. Plus - it's right on the water!)
We camped at another campground on the west side of the peninsula last time up. I can't remember the name. It was the kind of place that people rent spaces for the year and set up RVs. Nice owners, and mostly quiet. The minus is that it's about 15 min. drive back to Lion's Head. Reasonably clean showers, and an overall nice campground.
The town pub is great! Decent food, and, of course, beer!
Just outside of Lion's Head was a restaurant (again, I totally can't remember the name!) - decent prices and suprisingly good food.
Route finding is tough and there aren't many 9s. But there are a lot of great 10a/b routes. You really don't want to rap in an lead out of routes unless you're really solid at the grade. The combination of the rap in/climb out situation and the serious exposure mean that you won't be pushing grades there, but it's a beautiful setting, fun 'adventure sport' setup and pretty good climbing!
Do a search of the board for "Lion's Head" - there have been a few threads about it (and I'm sure I posted some useful info back when I could remember things!
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We camped at another campground on the west side of the peninsula last time up. I can't remember the name. It was the kind of place that people rent spaces for the year and set up RVs. Nice owners, and mostly quiet. The minus is that it's about 15 min. drive back to Lion's Head. Reasonably clean showers, and an overall nice campground.
The town pub is great! Decent food, and, of course, beer!
Just outside of Lion's Head was a restaurant (again, I totally can't remember the name!) - decent prices and suprisingly good food.
Route finding is tough and there aren't many 9s. But there are a lot of great 10a/b routes. You really don't want to rap in an lead out of routes unless you're really solid at the grade. The combination of the rap in/climb out situation and the serious exposure mean that you won't be pushing grades there, but it's a beautiful setting, fun 'adventure sport' setup and pretty good climbing!
Do a search of the board for "Lion's Head" - there have been a few threads about it (and I'm sure I posted some useful info back when I could remember things!
)Bacon is meat candy.