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Wild Gift: 13a
Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 4:16 am
by 512OW
Ok, I'm confused. I'm reading a climbing magazine from 1992, with a short article by Porter Jarrard about the Red in it...
Here are some of the things that confuse me...
At Left Flank:
"Mercy of the Home" 12c
"Bong Water" 12d
What the hell is Bong Water?? Mercy of the Home???
At Roadside:
"State of Hand" 12b/c
"Wild Gift" 13a
Huh???
Theres also a pic of Porter on Stunning The Hog, and you can barely spot a spec of chalk in the shot....
Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 6:45 am
by L K Day
Could it be that whoever interviewed Mr. Jarrard for the article didn't speak Porter? Oops, I just noticed you said the article was by Porter. Maybe he liked to write while smashed.
Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 11:23 am
by 512OW
Its a big article about southern sandstone, with several small sections. Each section has a different author. Rob Robinson, Glen Ritter, Chris Watford, and Porter. The writing styles are distinctly different, so each person seemingly wrote their own section. Porter obviously was a better climber than writer!
Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 11:31 am
by Buster
Porter had some funky ways of doing those routes. His method for wild gift was prolly 13a but once more folks started doing it the proper sequences were found.
The day he redpointed mercy he was sure that it was 13a!
Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 11:38 am
by 512OW
Haha. I can definitely feel that.
Buster... What the hell was "Bong Water"?? Was that the original name for "Dinosaur", maybe??
Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 11:45 am
by Buster
512OW wrote:Haha. I can definitely feel that.
Buster... What the hell was "Bong Water"?? Was that the original name for "Dinosaur", maybe??
I'm not sure. I emailed Porter with your query so I should know the answer sometime next year.
I remember the inspiration for Stunning the Hog though. Porter had some twisted magazine with picture of some guy getting ready to smack a big pig in the head with a ball peen hammer and it was captioned "JR fixin' to stun the hog"
Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 12:01 pm
by rhunt
those roots were that hard back in the day. The holds have grown so now they are easier.
Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 12:05 pm
by 512OW
Buster wrote:
I'm not sure. I emailed Porter with your query so I should know the answer sometime next year.
I remember the inspiration for Stunning the Hog though. Porter had some twisted magazine with picture of some guy getting ready to smack a big pig in the head with a ball peen hammer and it was captioned "JR fixin' to stun the hog"
Re: Wild Gift: 13a
Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 12:22 pm
by Sloopy
Just never let anyone dare you to drink the bong water.
Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 3:19 pm
by Toy
Try doing Wild Gift by staying in the bolt line (one slightly left of it) at the last 2 bolts. Prolly is 13a that way