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40 ounces of freedom
Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2003 3:42 am
by davetieri
just wondering if anyone has information about the rumor that 40 ounces of freedom in the madness cave has had numerous hold broken off and is now not climbable
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2003 9:04 pm
by KennyT
Dave,
I was on 40 last weekend for the first time. If any holds have ever broken off, it is not at all more difficult than the grade (13a) suggests. A great route...too bad I can't come back up to the Red this weekend to lay siege.
The route's start confused me, though. Some friends of mine said the guidebook prescribes aiding up to the first bolt, but chalked holds tell me someone's been able to free it. The climbing looks easy, but the holds don't look like they'll hold more than a few pounds at best.
later
Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2003 4:41 am
by davetieri
cool! i will get on it next time at the red... thanks alot kenny
Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2003 9:44 pm
by allah
I thought it was 40 ounces of Justice?
Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2003 2:04 pm
by KennyT
you're right, it is 'justice'...this is confusing for people like me b/c we've got a route called 40oz of freedom down here at the Obed.
Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2003 4:19 pm
by Legion
"'cuz a 40 ounce to freedom is the only chance I have to feel good even when I feel baaaaaad"
Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2003 2:02 pm
by Spoonman
The crux (first two bolts on roof) used to crumble quite often. I broke a hold in that area a few years ago and then someone else ripped off a large one about a month later. I haven't been back on it since, but I hear it has stabilized somwhat? I plan to get on it anyway this season. It is still 13a, and most people A0 to the first bolt.
Forty Ounces of Justice refers (maybe) to the forty ounces of glue used in the crux.