RRC Archives

With all the talk (and experiments) of new bolting practices in Muir to improve safety I was curious as to how many falls you would guess a bolt takes. Obviously there are some that may have never or verey seldom taken a fall others that get ? falls a day, a year.

So what do you suppose the average bolt gets in a year? More importantly a worked route that has a crux move that practically everyone takes a big one at the same spot ( for a year also)?

How many licks does it take to get to the Tootsie Roll center of a Tootsie Pop?

I have seen some bolts take 20 falls in a day, so there are some out there that have over 1,000 easy, maybe even nearing 10,000 for some crux bolts on some older routes (tissue and gung ho come to mind).

someone once told me that if you don't fall you never have to worry about it....I think this person was a traddie though....yep def a traddie.... 8)

Here is something to keep in mind, rock varies, A LOT! There are so many variables to take into mind, being scientific or methodical about bolting rock is virtually impossible. Of course there is a right and wrong way to install fixed anchors but it is up to the installer to determine what is most appropriate for EACH anchor/bolt they place, and that could vary for EVERY bolt on a single route.

Concerning bolt testing in an application that has actually been tested, look at these numbers;
http://www.itw-redhead.com/trubolt_perf_1.asp

IT is not unrealisitic to think that there will someday be drills that will be able to analyze the rock as they drill letting you know the strength of the rock your are drilling.

that technology already exists, its called experience.

if everyone entered in the number of attempts per route, you could calculate which routes have seen the most number of attempts and start to get any idea that way..

Paul proved this past weekend that the 2nd bolt on Abby Gabby Doo can hold more than 23 whips.

actually just 21.. i have the bruises on my knees to prove it.