misuse of gear
Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2007 7:12 pm
I just got a Very Stern Reprimand for misuse of gear, and I want to get a general consensis to see if what I did was, indeed, cause for alarm.
The situation was that a friend and I went to Red Rocks and took a class on beginnig trad leading. In the class, the instructor had us take a fall on his tricam while being backed up on TR. Having never placed a piece before in my life, I found this to be quite thrilling. Especially the thought immediately after the fall "oh my god, it held!"
So, in my excitement, I decide to repeat this great trick by placing 1 piece of each kind (stopper, cam, hex) and taking a "fall" on them. By fall, am not talking about Gaar's 20 foot whipper which bent the piece. My waist was at the piece and i had a 24" sling attached to my lead rope (backed up on TR so i won't deck) - i fell maybe 2-3 feet. I had a wonderful time and feel a lot more comfortable about how the gear works.
The reprimand came because the 3 pieces I used were borrowed gear and the owner was not present. (we borrowed a rack to take the class) The owner was Quite Upset when he found out. I have offered to purchase all 3 pieces i fell on, as I have apparently shortened the life of the pieces.
what I want to know is, did I ignorantly commit a climbing faux-pas? I always thought gear was ment to be used and that it was designed to support falls.
also, barring falls that physically bend/damage, the piece, how many falls can a piece support before it needs to be retired?
The situation was that a friend and I went to Red Rocks and took a class on beginnig trad leading. In the class, the instructor had us take a fall on his tricam while being backed up on TR. Having never placed a piece before in my life, I found this to be quite thrilling. Especially the thought immediately after the fall "oh my god, it held!"
So, in my excitement, I decide to repeat this great trick by placing 1 piece of each kind (stopper, cam, hex) and taking a "fall" on them. By fall, am not talking about Gaar's 20 foot whipper which bent the piece. My waist was at the piece and i had a 24" sling attached to my lead rope (backed up on TR so i won't deck) - i fell maybe 2-3 feet. I had a wonderful time and feel a lot more comfortable about how the gear works.
The reprimand came because the 3 pieces I used were borrowed gear and the owner was not present. (we borrowed a rack to take the class) The owner was Quite Upset when he found out. I have offered to purchase all 3 pieces i fell on, as I have apparently shortened the life of the pieces.
what I want to know is, did I ignorantly commit a climbing faux-pas? I always thought gear was ment to be used and that it was designed to support falls.
also, barring falls that physically bend/damage, the piece, how many falls can a piece support before it needs to be retired?