RRC Archives

Currently I am a solid 5.10 and some 5.11's. Would like to do Ro Shampo or Lip Service in the spring. I am 6-2 so I have reach for the long moves. Which would you pick? What moves shoudl I do to train for these?

go get on ro and find out. its pumpy with moves that can be eliminated with your height (im 6 2 also)

For Lip Service, make sure you're solid both on overhanging jug hauls and really slopey gymnastic feelings moves. It's a very cool route, but requires quite a bit of varied technique. I couldn't use J.J.'s beta for the crux, and instead had to do this pose on the route in order to reach the next hold:

It was pretty amusing, but it worked every time.

Lip service is the better route in my opinion.

The best training for climbing is to climb.

lip service for sure is the cooler line. Tina Toprope the snot out of it and carry a very long stick clip up the route with you. just as Yasmeen..she forgot to tell you that part of her training.

http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=206

Power endurance training

Stronger climbers can also use the Campus board for training ’short term’ power endurance, either by utilising the larger ladder rungs, or by using closer rung spacing rungs on the smaller rungs. You will need to be capable of performing between approximately 15 and 30 repetitions to make this worthwhile. This type of training can be highly effective for developing the sort of extreme finger endurance that is tested to the limit when slapping your way up a desperately sustained route.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Killing_spree
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indecent_exposure

Combine these two, and you'll be in good shape for Ro.

Pigsteak, you're such a jerk. Don't point your self-hatred due to your need to hang static lines next to FAs that you're going to give away anyway because you can't figure out the crux beta at me.

Hugs,
Yasmeen

you my love, are the crux beta...

death threats, piglet

lol