RRC Archives

"The theory around here is that if you are onsighting most of the routes in a certain grade, say 5.11- without hanging or falling then you are a 5.11- leader. If you can work a 5.11+ and eventually redpoint it you are a 5.11+ climber. Any reasonably fit person can eventually climb a route if they work it long enough. Being able to start on the ground and lead it to the top without any proir knowledge separates the leaders from the climbers."

I found this quote in Mt. Lemmon, Arizona climbing guidebook by Eric Rhicard

I THOUGHT IT SAID POLITICALLY CORRECT, SO MY VOTE IS NULL.....

You have to lead more than ONE 11+ (or whatever # you need) to say "i'm a 11+ climber" i agree though that it's just climbing. If someone asks "so, what do you climb?" i usually just throw up a little and that makes them go away. Just cuz you can pull your penis out to 12 inches does not mean you have a 12 inch cock. Quit stretching the truth.

JR wrote:Any reasonably fit person can eventually climb a route if they work it long enough.

That's not correct. Most people could work Witness the Fitness or Lucifer as long as they wanted but probably will never be able to send. At a certain point it takes some natural abilities or other voodoo.

yo SCIN dog...why you such a pessimist..visualize brah...visualize....

I said "most people". Not including myself.

actually, i was thinking that YOU were the only one who fit that desciption...

that original quote is probably from a trad master who thinks the world revolves around hexes and passive pro..see, if you boulder or sport climb, it ain't nuthin'....it's only climbing....but if you TRAD climb, then you are the cock of the walk...you get to lie about runouts (just means you don't know how to place gear), late night epics (just means you should never lead a group because you don't know how to plan), living out of garbage cans (means you're too lazy to work), choss rock (you suck at route finding), and righteous crack climbing (means you can't hang your ass off of steep stuff)

on second thought, it wasn't written by a traddie, because traddies don't redpoint routes..they hangdog and pull on gear up their chosen line, and then call it a send.

Onsiting a trad line is less of a true attempt at the line because of all the fiddling around with protection one must do. It's kind of like having to solve little math problems and puzzles and rubiks cubes while you climb. It's just not as pure as sport climbing.

I thought pure climbing was bouldering...now I am really confused.

RRO and Charlie...help.

Bouldering is for pussies who are scared of heights.