RRC Archives

Is this wrong?

If so, should others tell them that they should have done something differently? If so, how should one tell the guilty party?


Just curious...

I believe that you should tell them because you can't let a few people fuck things up for everyone else. You should try to tell them politely what they are doing wrong, why it's wrong, and what they can do to fix the problem. Anchors see enough wear and tear without some gumby toproping through them.

the best non-confrontational way i know is to pose the 'suggestion' as a question and solicit their opinion, perhaps a short 'discussion' on the pros and cons and the widely held beliefs on both anchor use and (and this is the critical part) that they're idiots.

Take a digital photos of the guilty party post it on here, which will blackball'em until they pony up the cash to replace the anchors, then give them 1 nice weekends worth of trail duty.

If that doesn't resolve the problem put a knot in their rope and pull it to the chains.

Nothing wrong with voicing your opinion, just let 'em know that the concensus at in the sport climbinng community is that you should be toproping through your own gear to prevent wear on the anchors and to increase the anchors life span. Especially true on chain or drop-ins.

Wondering myself...

and someone else needs to answer this...

aren't the double ring anchors OK (designed for) to TR from so long as they are free to rotate? This prevents uneven wear and I would think less abuse than a draw hanging from them (metal to metal). I know the hard core traditionalists will say never TR from anything other than your own gear, but...

if they're TR through anchor chains bec they don't know how to clean properly, then send them to muir valley - they have an anchor system set up about 8 feet off the ground and they can learn there.

i think it was huggy that told me when people tr thru anchors god kills kitties. that should be enough to stop most people.

shouldn't be outside climbing if someone in your group doesn't know how to clean. get a guide. never TR thru permanent gear..just makes sense so it'll last longer.

Yeah, that is the bottom line. If you see someone TRing through anchors, just whisper in their ear "psst, buddy, you just killed a kitten. Everytime someone topropes through the achors, god kills a kitten."

I havn't seen stats lately, but last I head kitty deaths were up near the RRG.

pigsteak wrote:shouldn't be outside climbing if someone in your group doesn't know how to clean. get a guide. never TR thru permanent gear..just makes sense so it'll last longer.

only since its you.........


if you thought thru the process pigsnuts you would see someone in their group has to be able to change anchors. they got the rope in the anchor to begin with. myself, i would love to see a bunch of groups come out that do not know how to change over. you would have 2 draws left at the top of every climb(this does happen). what we have here is classic lazy moderate rope gun. we have all been there and some still are. you are just at that level where you can climb, not well enough to fit in with the hard talking has been sport chumps like yourself piggie. so you recruit 10 of your best drinking friends along. 1 to carry radio, 1 to carry rope, 1 to carry beer, 1 classic hippie with tye dye t and the rest to shout what a fabulous climber you are as you hang dog up the warm up and try to be modest by saying, "most people cant do this line and hanging is just part of getting strong, brah. its all about positive vibes bro, all about the vibes. that my sixth time onsighting that route." after a few beers and talking to is tye dyed friend he is too tired or lazy to repeat said route. since he has been cragging at least 4 times and is a pro he has learned that if he just cleans his first route the first time he will have enough juice to hang up pogue ethics.

did you learn anything today piggie ?