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I am going to Potrero Chico from 12/14 to 12/24. If any of you have been I would appreciate some Beta.

Where did you camp? Was your stuff safe, as in did you have to worry about someone going into your tent? Did they have a stove that you could use?

I was told that most climbs can be done with a single 70m rope (mainly worried about multi pitch). Did you find this to be the case?

Did you buy a guidebook when you got there? Supposedly you can't buy one online. Does anyone have one they would let me borrow/buy? Then I can do some planning ahead of time.

What are the must do climbs (5.12 and under)? We plan on doing lots of long multi pitch climbs as well as single pitch.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Chris

I have a guidebook you can use. Might be a bit old (5-6 years).

Single rope is correct for most of the routes. Camping was not an issue, tents were safe. Food is cheap.

stay at homeros. its cheap, lots of cool people and homero has thrown a few kick ass parties while we were there. we found our stuff to be very safe but i wouldnt leave high dollar stuff in your tent. the locals around the area see climbers as a huge income generator and treat you with respect and kindess. we got rides, drinks or food from just about everyone we talked to. but play it safe as anywhere and lock up what you can. are you driving down ? homeros has a community kitchen thats well stocked with pots, pans and so on. you can camp at his place, rent a room in the hostel like cabin or rent a small cabin. showers are included and they have a party shower room that has like 4 heads just in case you get lucky with the ladies

a 70 will come in handy for sure. a few routes will still need double ropes to get down safe. TIE KNOTS in you rope on EVERY rappell. I bet one death a year happens down there when craggers do the big stuff and are not used to it. also wear a brain bucket at all times. its sport climbing but it aint a sport crag. loose rock is all around and you WILL encounter rock fall. do not climb below another party, ever. get up early if you want to do the classics like yankee clipper, space boys, snot girls, jungle, estralitta(sp?) and so on.there are always people in line for these. hnag your gear and backpack on the first or second bolt to deter theft and to make sure people know you are on the line. bring 20 or more draws. a lot of the pitches are full rope and eat up draws. expect some sporty runouts, if your on a 5.10 the 5.8 and lower will be spaced quite a bit. 5.11's the 5.9 and lower is spaced and so on....

man i wouldnt do a lot of the single pitch stuff, you can do that here. get on the long routes. get 20 pitches of steller 5.9-5.11 and be down in time for beer and food. if you have the money dont worry about bringing much food with you. you can eat and drink like a king for next to nothing. the market in town is tues and friday(if i rem right) you can score big deals on fresh food and supplies. make sure you get a local to take you to the homemade ice cream bar stand. for like .50 you can get the best fresh fruit ice cream bars in the world. i almost quit climbing and became the dudes apprentice they were so good.

sometimes the local kids will ask for some things if they see you in the canyon. some people do, some people dont but the kids were stoked to get a biner.

support the local efforts by buying a guide book. i think we have an old one somewhere and you are welcome to borrow but a lot of development has been going on since we were there.

portrero rocks man !!!! one of my favorite places.

I'm going on my 6th trip to the Potrero this year for New Years so I can hopefully give you some good beta.

There are several options for camping ranging from guerilla camping in the park (free, no facilities, NOT recommended) to posh casitas. I've stayed at Rancho Cerro Gordo back when Kurt owned it, Homeros, and the Posada and I think the Posada is the best. Homeros just seems to get dustier and nastier each time while the Posada has trees to camp under and grass to keep the dust down. All the campgrounds have kitchen facilities available to use. The big market is on tuesday so try to schedule tuesday as a rest day. The market is fun and cool view into life in rural mexico.

The water in the campgrounds is fine to drink. I've never had any intestinal issues there (knock on wood) although many people avoid lettuce and tomatoes when buying food at the market (at the least, wash it carefully once you back to camp).

A 70m rope helps on the long routes as some of the pitches are 31-35m long. Buy the guidebook there from Tammi. She runs a little coffee shop right beside the Posada. 50-100 new routes go in each year so the olds ones will be a little dated. The grades can be a little soft on some of the routes.

The climbing is good but I wouldn't call it world class. I'll agree with RRO about not climbing under anyone else. Rockfall happens when morons don't know how to pull rap ropes or get off route so don't be under them. I rarely wear a helmet and feel safe but the newer routes take time to clean up. I'll disagree with RRO and say that there are very worthwhile single pitch routes.

Some recommendations off the top of my head:

Mota wall. Most of the routes are pretty good and it gets morning sun. Very short approach, good for warming up. Routes at all grades. Can be crowded.

Mileski Wall. Long hike (up the hill from Mota). Awesome pocket routes, best in the 11+ - 13a range. Worth the hike and usually uncrowded.

Club Mex Wall. Several good 12a-c routes on good stone.

Virgin Canyon has some excellent routes (as well as some misses). Don Quixote is good. Strokin the Bishop is a cool 3 pitch route with a little tufa climbing. Punta de Insperacion (sp) is a neat 3 pitch route that climbs to the top of a little spire with good views; a little bit of a hike but usually uncrowded. There are some easy routes in the Virgin Canyon that get crowded.

Dihedrals/Surf Bowl. The surf bowl is a steep alcove with 5 good tufa routes from 12a - 13c. Guppie (12a) and Surfer Rosa (13a) are both excellent. The dihedrals are right beside the surf bowl and have some good, technical routes as well as a 35m bolted 5.9 handcrack.

The Outrage. Killer routes, slightly overhanging to fairly overhanging, single and multipitch from 5.11 to 5.13. I haven't done any bad routes there. Sendero Diablo is a classic 5 pitch 11c that is a must do. Celestial Omnibus is a 12a tufa route that starts about 110ft off the deck and is truely world class. Maybe the best route I've done in the potrero. Steel Pulse (right beside C. Omnibus) is good too. The outrage gets sun for most of the day.

Spires. There's a classic 2pitch 5.10 that everyone does on the smaller, uphill spire. Aguela cel ray or something like that. It's really cool and can be done quickly. Pangea is an 11+ that everyone raves about on the the backside of the spires but I thought it was just ok.

Total Fitness Cave. If it's hot the TFC is worth hiking up to. Several good tufa routes in the 12a-c range. TFC gets no sun and usually has a breeze but that hikein is bad (45minutes very steeply uphill).

Jungle Wall. They're all pretty good. Jungle Mountaineering is an old potrero classic, one of the 1st modern sport routes and is quite runout (but very easy). It's the only route in the potrero that I remember thinking the bolting was really sparse. Black Cat Bone, Space Boys, Yankee Clipper are all good (if repetitive). Snot Girlz (on the mota wall) is, to me, more fun than the others because it has variety but it's only 7 pitches long. Estrellita is good. To get a jump on the crowds you can start on Big Rigs and Burritos to get to pitch 4? of Estrallita and go quickly.

I'm sure I've left out lots of stuff but hopefully this should help. If you get the chance and like tufa routes, head down to El Salto. It's a couple hours away but has very nice 1-2 pitch routes on overhanging tufas and steep stalagtites.

Hope this helps.

--Brent

I've been there three times over X-mas/New Years. Stopped going because the crowds got so bad so be prepared.

If you're driving, cross over at the Columbia Bridge border. It's easier.

Also, bring toilet paper with you. It's a commodity there and it's polite to bring extra to donate. Bring flip flops for the showers too. I caught ring worm there one year from a minor shower spread.

If you want to do something real nice, bring Humero a gift from the states. We always did and he appreciated it. He's a Mexican cowboy - big and intimidating.

Yes, a 70m is all you need. Ropes commonly get stuck on rappels so if you're tieing two ropes together use something like a double fisherman, something tight and small.

Like RRO said, you have to get up EARLY for the popular climbs. 6AM won't cut it as there will already be a line. Aim for 4AM or learn how to simulclimb.

Have fun!

Pretty solid info so far. I would add that you should bring a windbreaker (windy there, esp, high on some of the routes), and it might get colder then you think it should, so a down jacket and a warm sleeping bag are nice to have. Lot's of rockfall, so I wore my helmet a lot, sometimes just to walk around the base of the routes if there were people above me.

We stayed a Kurt's, which was one of the best campgrounds I have seen, but not sure what it is like now. All the people in town were super friendly. You should try to catch the wwf style matches in town if you can - maybe one of the best roadtrip memories, even though I was pretty hammered. Market day is rad, and there is a little gorcery store run by some cool people - they gave us a ride back to camp. She takes polaroids of all the climbers that come in and hangs them on the walls.

You can buy beer while walking to and from the crag! We did a bit of climbing, but didn't really push hard - just did some routes, drank some beer, and enjoyed ourselves. Did one long route (Yankee clipper), and that was a lot of fun.

Flying into Montaray and catching a cab to Potrero is pretty easy, and we spent a night hitting some of the bars, shops and stuff in town before flying out.

Thanks for all the information!! I look forward to checking out alot of different climbs. Looks like we will be getting up really early a couple of days.

We are flying into Montaray and catching a cab to Potrero.

Take lots of notes and post up when you get back..........maybe next year for me

Have a good time!

Potrero...Wow, amazing place. I was there from mid Nov - early Dec 2005. All the info so far has been pretty good. I would also recommend sunglasses, if nobody mentioned so far. Out of the three weeks I was there, I only saw clouds in the sky maybe 2 days, and it only rained once. Also, if you climb regularly at the Red, you should probably already be prepared for this, but be careful on 5.9 I saw a few different injuries due to falls while I was there, and they were all on 5.9. The easier grades tend to be a little runout, depending on who did the bolting. Some of the 5.8 pitches I did on the longer routes might have bolts every 30 ft. On the whole though, the bolting was awesome...everytime you wanted to clip something, it was there. Watch out for idiots...most of the busy days I saw parties climbing directly under each other on notoriously loose routes and other assorted examples of stupidity. Also, if you want to take a day off, I recommend the weekend. Most of the weekends, a lot of locals will drive their trucks into the canyon and it's basically a big mexican party...you'll be climbing with 30-50 people drinking beer and laughing at you, and mexican music blaring from car stereos. I guess this might be fun for some people, but I found that I'd rather climb on the weekdays when the canyon was relatively quiet and save the loud weekends for rest days. Also, the guidebook is pretty sparse with directions to some areas, so make sure to ask someone before taking off to find an out of the way cliff...I got lost on cactii filled cliff-sides multiple times. Everyone will tell you this, but I'll repeat it from personal experience, watch out for loose rock. I did a two-rope rappel off the backside of the most popular spire, can't remember what it's called now. My rope got caught in a cactus on the side of the cliff when I threw it in high wind and I had to rap halfway down to try to unstick it. It was stuck about 50 feet to my left, so I locked off my cinch and try to pull myself a little closer along the face so I could see what it was stuck in. I ended up dislodging a rock half the size of a fridge, which hit me on the leg and fell about 100 feet exploding into the ground below. Thank God nobody was under me climbing, because several routes started from that location. So any way, long-story-short, the danger from loose rock is very real, especially on areas that haven't been cleaned...look out for idiots like me above you. Aside from all of that, it was one of the best experiences of my life...have fun.