RRC Archives

i was told once that the soutern bolt ethics was put the first bolt high and stickclip it to protect ground fall or at least slow you down alot before you hit the ground. then there are those who say if you have to use a stickclip you shouldnt be on the route to begin with. what are your thought out there.

It's common practice to stickclip the first bolt here,but you are free to do as you please.Alot of the sport routes I have been on have cruxes at the bottom so it makes good sense to stickclip.

Ditto to what ynot says. Do you feel is best and don't worry about what others say.
Not all sport routes at the Red are bolted with the first bolt high. I would say the majority are not.
I will stick clip if i know the start is dificult/ potntially dangerous fall. I want to climb all I can, not struggle along with a cast!

Hey use those stick clips , it is sport climbing. i use them on some routes. I remember once katy browne was looking for one to use on stay the hand, so i just bouldered up and clipped it for her. then she just cruised it like it was nothing. lots of very good climbers have used them. do what ever makes you comfortable.

I think every sport climber has used one at one point or another. Just do whatever you want to feel safe.

DaggerX

what about the second bolt,ive seen people clip the second bolt on routes like fuzzy undercling and relaxed atmosphere. ive even seen people clip the third bolt on government cheese. i personaly dont have any problem using a stickclip i would rather clip the bolt than blow off the opening moves and sprang or even brake an ankle

Well, if you are going to stick clip your way up the whole route, then I'd say you need to get on something easier. But HEY, it's you doin' the climbing right?

don' let Jeff get hold of your stickclip. We're still in therapy!

Ha Ha!
Hey, I took good care of Sticky. *I* was the one who ended up with seperation anxiety when I finaly gave him back to you.
By the way, where in the heck have you been?

Since I toprope 99.99% (thanks, partmer), I can't say too much on the subject. I think it might be like the long draws on my first "lead", or following my partmer up climbs beyond my abilities, clipping up could allow one to get comfy and learn moves on a climb before actually leading it. Just my thoughts. I've seen some excellent climbers (present company excluded) clip up just so they could experience the climb. Seen some downgrading with gear as well. Okay, having said all that, I'll just sit back and wait for the dipsi blastings!