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Still Waiting?
Posted: Sat Oct 07, 2006 6:32 pm
by Day
As far as I know, Tower of Power is still waiting for someone to climb it. It's been twenty seven years this month since the first ascent. If anyone else has climbed it in that time they haven't sprayed about it on this forum. So humor me, throw a top rope on it at least. It will be involved. Probably have to tie two ropes together. It may be a long way back from the edge to some anchors, so bring an old rope or a lot of slings. Keep your belayer safe by having them stand well away from the bottom of the route, just in case. You'll find some really fun moves, spectacular position, and a unique look at the history of early trad in the gorge. Tell me what you think.
Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 12:41 am
by ynot
Man, all your routes are sweet. Good Tang is better than Roadside Attraction.
Diamond in the Crack, Full Moon. Lots of stuff that is classic and there's always a rewarding view from the top.
Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 1:43 am
by kneebar
I'm sure I could talk Tackett into going out and dragging me up it!
Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 3:33 am
by L K Day
You'll like it, I promise. Then you can harrangue the others, so I won't have to.
Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 8:25 pm
by marathonmedic
When ynot starts talking about "crack", "moon" and "rewarding view from the top" I start getting really nervous.
Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 9:50 pm
by RRO
kneebar wrote:I'm sure I could talk Tackett into going out and dragging me up it!
ha ! me drag you up it !?!? your the rope gun for sure between us.
so lets do the #'s.
what did larry call it back in the day, 10 c R i think. so by taking into account todays standards and larrys habit of sandbagging the hell out of his routes thats about 11b/c. then lets look at the end of that grade, larry called it R so by todays flapping standards and taking into account that larry is a bad ass that would probably warrent the big X.
with that said, an onsite attempt will not be in my near future but i would be game to do some tr rehearsal or follow you up it ken
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
( i have no standards and do not mind tr'ing a line first)
Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 2:04 am
by ynot
You just cant see this thing from the ground. I looked for it today. I could be tempted to do the Corner. Wide and nasty lookin.
Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 4:58 am
by L K Day
Sure you can see it from the ground. The Corner is pitch one. The first few feet do look wide and nasty indeed. Just lay it back, no wide crack thrash required. The upper two thirds of pitch one is really sweet, you'll see. Pitch two surmounts the roof directly above the crack via a pointed flake that is somewhat detached from the roof above. From the left side of the flake hand traverse out until you can swing a leg over the thing. From here you'll be sitting astride the flake, leaning way back, with the roof right in your face. Using a small face hold you can reach way out to a bomber hold right at the lip. I can't remember if you stand on the flake before or after you reach this hold. From here swing up and climb the face above. I remember at least a couple of really cool off balance mantels. I think you'll be blown away by how good this route is. For me, back in the day, it was the great test piece in the Gorge. Even Greg Smith avoided what was, to me, the obvious challenge of the roof pitch. This is a serious lead! I did it on sight because that's the challenge I was looking for. TR it. It will be tons of fun!
Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 12:50 pm
by pigsteak
larry,
we need more folks like you around here who still appreciate a good adventure. keep your history lessons coming. once a week you should share with us a good story from your climbing days here. start a "bedtime with Larry" thread.
Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 1:15 pm
by Horatio Felacio
you're such a fucking kiss up pigsteak.