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Princess Arch questions
Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 1:45 pm
by twetherbee
Next week I'm going to be climbing with some gumbies for which easy toproping would be a blessing, at least for the first day out. Otherwise I'm going to have to play human ropegun and try to keep everyone safe...you know the drill. Anyway, the guidebook description of Pricess Arch lists an approach from the top and easy toproping. I've never been there, so I'm looking for any beta you can supply. Specifically, here are a few questions:
1) What do you find for building anchors at the top?
2) How easy is the rap from the top? Would it be okay for gym climbers, or would it be better to have them bushwack around?
3) Do the cracks take pro well if I lead them?
4) For toproping, do the routes belay better from the top or bottom?
5) Are the routes worth doing for introducing some gym climbers to easy crack climbing?
Thanks,
Tom
Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 2:00 pm
by Crankmas
1. trees 2. easy 3. yes 4. bottom 5. no
Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 4:59 pm
by Andrew
Don't do it.
Re: Princess Arch questions
Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 5:04 pm
by Ascentionist
1) Sand and firewood (I'm serious)
2) Easy enough
3) Ripp-Off and Golden Fleece do, Finger Filet and Face Farce do not
4) Neither, lots of junk and dirt rain down on either the climber, belayer or both, but the lesser of evils would be to belay from the top so you can guard your stuff from tourons, but be prepared to answert rediculously stupid questions
5) Absolutely not
Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 5:21 pm
by Zspider
It was one of my favorite spots for a long time until I learned to lead. The routes are not very good, though.
ZSpiddy
Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 6:57 pm
by gunslnga
WHAT THEY ALL SAID, SOME OF IT IS JUST ROUGH SCRAMBLING FOR THE MOST PART.
Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 8:06 pm
by Crankmas
its worth the hike to check out the view if nothing else, then you could do the scramble down off the end of the ridge and make the call yourself
Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 8:10 pm
by rhunt
go to Muir Valley
...note - make sure all your gumbies sign the online waiver first
Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 9:02 pm
by Crankmas
Muir Valley is a great idea, can be a long approach if you park at Gladdie Creek though, but I'm pretty sure that the best place to park and all.
Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 9:40 pm
by twetherbee
Thanks all. That saves me some time and bother. I was planning on going to Muir, but later in the week when we have a full day. There's some great lines there for novice climbers. I haven't looked at the practice wall, just because I didn't need it, but with these folks it could be perfect. I noticed a route called Tradmill near the practice wall; any of you done it? It looks like fun.
Thanks again,
Tom