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Papa Love Jugs
Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 2:31 am
by robert birchell
Would you please compare Papa Love Jugs and Return Chris Snyder.
I know the latter is twice as long as Papa. Is one more technical?
Any beta on both will be appreciated.
Re: Papa Love Jugs
Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 2:35 am
by Wes
ROCS = Pumpy climbing, with really good rests.
PLJ = hard(ish) boulder problem to easy climbing, to one move at the top.
Totally different styles of route, though both feel right on at .11d
Oh, and both kick ass and are outstanding routes.
robert birchell wrote:Would you please compare Papa Love Jugs and Return Chris Snyder.
I know the latter is twice as long as Papa. Is one more technical?
Any beta on both will be appreciated.
Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 11:47 am
by Andrew
ROCS = fun
PLJ = more fun
To sum it up
PLJ>ROCS>brother stair
Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 11:50 am
by Paul3eb
Andrew wrote:To sum it up
PLJ>ROCS>brother stair
..don't even get me started.. now i'm fired up and it's still the early morning..
Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 12:22 pm
by Yasmeen
It warms my heart to see that, Andrew, but you forgot to put <everysinglerouteatthered> between ROCS and Brother Stair.
Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 1:18 pm
by chriss
Both are outstanding climbs.
PLJ, as Wes said, has some harder moves down low and up high seperated with long moves on huge jugs in the middle. I thought that PLJ felt a little tougher than RCS.
RCS is a classic RRG climb, long and pumpy with no move harder than mid 10. You get three no hands rests, with the second being as bat hang. Milk the rests and the climb will feel much easier.
Have fun. For some other great 11d's check out seek the truth, velvet, ethics police, gold rush, government cheese, ... so many good ones at this grade!
Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 1:31 pm
by Horatio Felacio
i would appreciate a comparison of super slab and resurrection please wes.
Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 1:48 pm
by Wes
Horatio Felacio wrote:i would appreciate a comparison of super slab and resurrection please wes.
One is steep and hard, the other is less steep, but harder.
Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 3:27 pm
by Stewy911
moves are alot harder on Papa but it is not nearly as pumpy. ROCS is just a pump fest Good holds but all pump. Moves are no harder than V1 I think. So for someone like me who has no endurance this route feels harder than Papa.
Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 6:30 pm
by hoss
A hint on Papa, after you're finished slapping up the Huecos (super rad), hit a crimp rail, match, and go big out left to the arete and ride jugs to the chains.