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Washboard Wall Beta?

Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 6:01 am
by bryanboonern
Heard it on NPR at the Washboard Wall in MV sounds cool. It is a little above my grade. Does anyone know if it would be a good one to project? Clean falls, etc? It sound like the difficulty would be up high making for safe falls, but that's just an assumption. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 1:07 pm
by Feanor007
it's neat, the first part is easy, but a little more run out than usual. amazing exposure up top though, i think it would suck to kind of work though, b/c to get to the .10d section you'd have to climb 75 feet of non-discript .9ish climbing, plus fiddling with the belaing from the ledge halfway up. a better route at that crag is barenjager

Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 1:54 pm
by dah-le
I'd 2nd Feanor007's opinion...if you were projecting it, you'd hve to climb through the first pitch evry time you went to try to send it. The hardest section is definitely overhung enough for clean falls.
Give some thought to other overhanging routes, I think there are a couple in that range at drive-by. I'd also checkout a bunch of other crags..the online guidebook should help narrow the scope.
-Dale

Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 11:07 am
by endercore
yea, but the 10d section on NPR is incredible. The holds are huge, the moves are great, its really pumpy, and a challenge (for me at least ) to clip the chains.

I took a 2 or 3 falls from the last bolt and they are very clean, you just have to make sure you can swing back and grap your rope or you will have to do the whole second pitch again.


I haven't gotten to climb barenjager, but it looks sweet.

Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 8:30 pm
by 512OW
For christs sake, what has rockclimbing become?? "fiddling with the belaying from the ledge halfway up"?? Complaining about having to do the "9ish" pitch every time you go for the send on the 10d????

Maybe you should be excited that you got to do a multi pitch sport route, and realize that if you're projecting 10d, then reclimbing that "9ish" pitch is exactly what you need....

See what bouldering and sport climbing did to rock climbing???

Ruined it.

Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 8:37 pm
by pigsteak
ow, you are a bitter old man. quit ruining their fun. they are practicing spraying for future use.

Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 8:59 pm
by 512OW
Oh, well then that explains it.

Besides, I've been in the gym 9 out of the last 11 days, so I've lost all right to my ethical high horse.

But I'll ride it regardless.

YIPPEEKIYAY!!!!

Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 9:13 pm
by ynot
In the gym? climbing plastic? See what happens?

Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 10:20 pm
by young'n climber
Plundering in Plastic

Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 6:02 pm
by 512OW
A wise man once said, "If you can't beat em, join em. Then destroy em from the inside."