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"Exciting" falls?

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:02 pm
by Wes
While taking a 50 footer from the top of a nice long, steep route can get the blood flowing a bit, there are other much more "exciting" falls in the red. I have been lucky enough to take a couple of them, and was wondering what you all thought were routes with intresting falls.

Falling on the slab after the roof on Prime directive and going to the third bolt of Hen-ry are both pretty freaky. Any others?

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:12 pm
by Meadows
Well, you Mr. Wes convinced me to leave the anchors on Pulling Pockets unclipped and climb above them about 3 feet and whip. It became the thing to do for every time I got on the climb. I got on the route with Morgain one day and was oblivious to the fact that Terry had lowered the last bolt considerably in his retro-bolt effort.

I got to the top, let my feet cut and then met Morgain somewhere near the first bolt. :roll:

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:20 pm
by merrick
Yea I did the third bolt on Hen-ry. sliding down the slab and then spinning around the corner of the arete was certainly exciting.

It is also exciting when you are belaying and the person climbing yells "Rock" "Falling" "Rock" and is whipping and dropping a shoebox size of rock on you at the same time.

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:30 pm
by Stewy911
Ive seen some good ones on Hen-ry but I would have to say the Gift looks like it would have a potentially scary fall. I hav not been on it yet but was always curious to what that fall would be like.

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 3:23 pm
by rjackson
Blow the fourth clip after the crux on Ro Shampoo and you'll be looking your belayer in the eyes.

While Bandolier seems tame, I've taken some big whippers from the top and ended up near the ledge at the bottom. While slightly overhung, you watch the rock zoom by your face pretty close. Had a toe stick once and did this sideways.

Took a big one while trying to clip the anchors on recoil, though not too scary ended up pretty low.

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 3:25 pm
by rjackson
Blow the fourth clip after the crux on Ro Shampoo and you'll be looking your belayer in the eyes.

While Bandolier seems tame, I've taken some big whippers from the top and ended up near the ledge at the bottom. While slightly overhung, you watch the rock zoom by your face pretty close. Had a toe stick once and did this sideways.

Took a big one while trying to clip the anchors on recoil, though not too scary ended up pretty low.

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 5:32 pm
by mcrib
Haven't done it but I hear that blowing the anchors on the bottom of up yonder gets you pretty close to the ground.

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 6:22 pm
by Ballss
mcrib wrote:Haven't done it but I hear that blowing the anchors on the bottom of up yonder gets you pretty close to the ground.
I had the "supported" drop on that route. I got stung by a wasp as I was clipping the chains and, startled, fell. My ass hit the ground but without all my weight. It sucked....but was quite exciting. =)

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 6:23 pm
by Stewy911
thats exciting

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 6:26 pm
by Don McGlone
Those damn gri-gri belays...