RRC Archives

As a sporto slowly making the change to the dirty side of climbing, I've got a question. Most of the cracks in the Red are dihedrals, but my falls are on faces. What's the deal with falling on these lines? Seems like a double cheese-grater for sure.

I haven't hit anything on the way down yet but maybe I have been lucky. You tend to fall away from the rock. I do notice the bad fall potential as I'm climbing so I'm always aware. The easier lines tend to have lots of ledges and things. The option to place something and take is there too. It only costs you the send. beats a trip to the hospital.

The real worry in a dihedral isn't which wall you will hit. When your leading a dihedral it is very easy to get the rope behind your leg, even below your last piece is enough to give you a nasty burn, not to mention the whole flipping upsidedown issue. Just check your grip and go.

As noted, the great thing about easy trad is there's lots of places to stop and place gear.

I agree with goodguy. When climbing cracks your feet are many times in the same crack were you place your gear (with or without a dihedral) and it is easy to get you leg behind the rope. Just pay attention and wear a helmit if you plan on going upside down.

Just don't fall.......

You can keep falls to a minimum but it's gonna happen if you push your limits.

I don't know, man... Kneebar has managed to get well into the 5.12 range on trad and sport both, and I've never seen the man fall. Well, except for once, but his knot was at his piece of gear.