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Climbing Magazine Quote

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 4:57 pm
by One-Fall
Dave Schmidt's article "La Escuela" states that to be strong in America means you climb 13b. Except for the obvious 8a conversion, I don't understand where/why this grade was choosen?

Can someone fill me in?[/i]

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 5:19 pm
by SCIN
It's probably his hardest redpoint.

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 6:22 pm
by ReachHigh
I'm just pissed its not 5.10 anymore.

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 6:25 pm
by Wes
I say "5.13b is the new 5.12"

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 6:47 pm
by the lurkist
Isn't that the standard that the Swedish guy who authors the 8a.nu site uses? He says that hard climbing starts at 8a (13b). I don't know on what he bases that conclusion, but it might be just collective agreement in Europe. Maybe Schmidt is just copying his idea.

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 7:34 pm
by pigsteak
12a is for slackers and chumps....

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 7:45 pm
by Yasmeen
Stop whining, you'll get there some day, piggie ;)

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 8:44 pm
by gbarnett
Seems like 13a would be a better number.

Most mortals can break into 12's with a lot of training. Doesn't seem to happen much with 13's though.

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 10:42 pm
by Andrew
13a seems like a better number for americans, but 8a is a better number than 7c+ for Euro's

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 11:08 pm
by tomdarch
Poor Austrailians, they don't realize that when the progress from 28 to 29, they are suddenly 'real climbers'! Sucks to be them!