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Safely Cleaning a Top Anchor
Posted: Sat Jun 17, 2006 7:45 pm
by weber
We've installed a top anchor system 8 feet off the ground at the Bruise Brothers' Wall (just to the left of "Send Me On My Way") in Muir Valley. This provides a safe location to practice cleaning a top anchor and rappelling off while an experienced person stands by and observes everything the climber is doing.
And, here is a link to an MV page where climbers inexperienced with cleaning a top anchor and rappelling off can freely download a 10-page photo-illustrated tutorial on the subject in pdf form. (Sized for fast download.)
http://www.muirvalley.com/pdf-clean.html
Rick
Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 5:43 am
by bryanboonern
You think of everything Rick. You need to be commended for all of the emphasis you put on safety in Muir Valley. You have truly created a wonderful place to climb.
Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 12:33 pm
by pigsteak
excellent addition Rick
Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 1:27 pm
by overhung
how freakin' nice is this guy? his altruism makes me feel like a selfish bastard.
Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 5:06 pm
by wirednut
Thanks for the effort. Except for some scenarios not often seen at sport crags, I always argue against rappelling to clean a route. For those that feel they must rappell, or when circumstances indicate it, this seems good.
Will
Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 5:18 pm
by Paul3eb
wirednut wrote:Thanks for the effort. Except for some scenarios not often seen at sport crags, I always argue against rappelling to clean a route. For those that feel they must rappell, or when circumstances indicate it, this seems good.
Will
so wait...... what? are you for or against rapping down to clean a route? sorry, just confused by the post.
Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 5:43 pm
by pigsteak
Paul, he voted for it, before he voted against it.
Unless the route is very steep, the last climber should always rap.
Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 5:46 pm
by dipsi
One more reason to love the Webers!
Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 7:53 pm
by weber
For MV news and announcements of route status and conditions, new areas opened, events, volunteer activities, bolting booklet downloads, bolt and hardware testing results, AMGA TRSM courses at MV, and risk management booklet downloads, please go to:
http://www.muirvalley.com
This site is being expanded and, hopefully, will be fully updated within a couple weeks.
Rick
Posted: Mon Jun 19, 2006 11:45 am
by wirednut
Paul3eb wrote:wirednut wrote:Thanks for the effort. Except for some scenarios not often seen at sport crags, I always argue against rappelling to clean a route. For those that feel they must rappell, or when circumstances indicate it, this seems good.
Will
so wait...... what? are you for or against rapping down to clean a route? sorry, just confused by the post.
I don't know. I confused myself.
Oh yeah, now I remember: rappelling sucks.