project etiquette

Post by **kek-san** » Thu Jun 08, 2006 12:22 pm

So I thinking about working a route right at my limit and I'm guessing it may take me both Saturday and Sunday to send it. As such, I guess this might be considered "a project" by some.

I was looking for some tips as to the etiquette for leaving draws, spending a lot of time on a somewhat popular route, etcetera.

I really want to work the route, but at the same time I don't want others to hate me for monopolizing it.

Oh and one more thing, any tips for how many attempts before rest, how long to rest between goes, how long to rest after lunch, etc.

Post by **Meadows** » Thu Jun 08, 2006 12:31 pm

From what I understand, your stomach uses blood to digest, your limbs need blood to move. Wait until you've digested (however long that takes).

Post by **Wes** » Thu Jun 08, 2006 1:28 pm

Just two days? That isn't really much of a project. Think more like two years...

Leaving draws on 12's and up seems OK, esp. at the harder areas, but you never know. Overnight, I would think you would be fine though. And, if it is at your limit, then odds are good you won't have more the 3-4 burns in a day, so there would be plenty of time for others to run up your draws if they would like - just be sure to offer that chance if anyone comes by.

Rest at least 30 minutes between goes, but not more then an hour. Maybe 30-45 minutes after lunch, but I find just eating a little bit throughout the day works best.

Post by **kek-san** » Thu Jun 08, 2006 1:38 pm

Thanks a bunch Wes. Exactly the kind of info I was looking for. It jives with what I was thinking, but wanted to get some outside opinions.

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Jun 08, 2006 1:40 pm

good luck kek-san....projecting can be fun if you don't obsess over it. keep your emotions in check and don't get posessive of a route. after all, it is just a piece of rock...there is no winning or losing, just a journey.

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Jun 08, 2006 1:41 pm

and it just struck me that the first three folks to post (meadows, wes, pigsteak) are number chasing cretins.

Post by **Wes** » Thu Jun 08, 2006 1:42 pm

pigsteak wrote:and it just struck me that the first three folks to post (meadows, wes, pigsteak) are number chasing cretins.

You say that almost like it is a bad thing or something...

Post by **Meadows** » Thu Jun 08, 2006 1:49 pm

pigsteak, just because I refuse to climb your choss piles, I'm a number chaser?

Post by **RRO** » Thu Jun 08, 2006 1:52 pm

where is the wes that used to just have fun. "the most traveled 5.6 climber in all the land". now everytime i see you with your ivan green fan club, 16 dogs and film crew you seem all sad and obsessed about the #, the image and the scene. is it the fame and glory, the sponsors getting you down or just an over the hill crisis ? im more than a little concerned.

Post by **Wes** » Thu Jun 08, 2006 1:59 pm

RRO, just remember, as Big Daddy Kane says, "pimpin' ain't easy"... 8)