RRC Archives

.. on Seuss is Dead, a 5.7 trad route at Dip Wall, on Saturday May 20th.

Me and my twin brother, Rob, opted for an easy trad day on Saturday. In the afternoon we ended up at Dip Wall. The third route we got on was Seuss is Dead. Rob lead the climb, basically a 35 foot sandy crack with a fixed gear anchor, decided the anchor was solid enough and lowered off without a problem. As he lowered he pulled his gear so that I could lead the crack as well.

I lead the crack, got to the top and decided the anchor looked o.k.. It was made up of two nuts, a pink tricam and a sling around a very large flake. Most of the weight was being held by the flake, with one nut and the tricam slotted in the side of the flake. I weighted the anchor, bounced a little and decided that it felt solid enough. My brother started lowering me, and then I started falling. The only thought I can really remember having was, shit I'm going to deck. But luckily I was caught by a #2 camalot that was about 8 feet below the anchor.

The flake feature had completely ripped off, causing the anchor to fail and sending a 150 -200 pound rock falling straight towards us. Somehow the rock only barely scraped my arm and missed my brother. Actually, it landed on his rope tarp missing his rope, and the only thing it smashed was the corner of my guidebook and a can of red bull. Luckily I was not top roping when this happened. We were a little shaken up, but we still got on 6 other trad routes and had a fun day climbing.

So the point of my post, be careful and double check unexpected things can happen. Rock climbing is dangerous.


Chris

thankfully you are ok. You're really lucky it blew when it did.

That anchor has always been shit, so has the one on Fox in Lox, so beware.

Glad to hear you are ok though

I'm so sorry that happened to you guys, but so glad you are okay. Wow.

we should just close down FS 9 so that way this cannot happen again

wow glad to hear you are ok!

Glad you didn't get hurt. I guess that's why they recommend that you don't put all components of your anchor in the same flake if possible.

That's scary as hell! Another similar one is the anchor at the top of the 1st pitch of Ralph and Bobs (Long Wall) is made up of a pink tricam and a couple of slings. It's been there for at least 2 years. Really makes you think as you start to lower.

Fortunately everyone's OK in your case.

Chriss,
What time did this happen? We were at Dipp Saturday from about 11 to 5 (couple with a yellow dog).

Just crazy being so close when disaster is so close

Saturday, I was taking photos of a guy leading Leave it to Jesus at the new and got the birds eye view of him ripping his second piece, landing on the belayer, and both of them tumbleing off of a short rock ledge while bouncing off a tree or two. Only some bumps, scrapes, and bruises, which was pretty lucky.

share it, Wes! you almost certainly have to post that one!