"Heard it on NPR" strategy

Post by **tomdarch** » Wed May 03, 2006 8:45 pm

Hey, I've been wanting to get on this for a while.

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=1137

I managed to find a little info with a search, but things still seem a bit fuzzy.

One comment said that a 70m rope was a lot better than a 60m rope. Can you clean and rap/lower off the anchors with a single 60m rope?

Is this a good route to use to introduce someone to multi-pitch sport? Am I right in assuming that you can't rap from the top anchors down to the ledge/lower anchors becuase of the overhang?

Post by **Sco Bro** » Wed May 03, 2006 8:49 pm

This probably is a good training route for multi-pitch. The first set of anchors are bomber and on a big ledge. You can climb, anchor and belay a second easily from NPR and the two climbs to the right of it.

When I got on this my second rapped from the second anchor to the first anchor where I was tied off. We then rapped to the ground. One rope and one rap might work, we didn't try it.

Post by **kirker** » Wed May 03, 2006 9:27 pm

To save weight on the approach. What size camalot or nut or whatever. would do the job at the start.

Post by **chriss** » Wed May 03, 2006 10:33 pm

kirker wrote:To save weight on the approach. What size camalot or nut or whatever. would do the job at the start.

no gear is necessary for the start. The first bolt is at a fairly standard height (i.e. a stick clip can reach it).

Post by **Jeff** » Wed May 03, 2006 10:41 pm

A single 60m will allow you to lower to the ground with a couple of feet to spare.
You could also lower/rap to the ledge.
Nice, long route!

Post by **Jeff** » Wed May 03, 2006 11:03 pm

Kirker,
I think the reason a piece of gear is mentioned is that the start of the route is a bit right of the 1st bolt.
If I remember correctly, it could be a little intimidating for someone not comfortable on 10's.
I would think a #1 or #2 cam would work if you want to plug.