RRC Archives

I was reading the cool post from Rick Webber about their testing of glue-in bolts, and it got me thinking: What single bolt in the Red has taken the most lead falls? I'm talking about above-the-bolt falls, not for example, the bolt at the crux of Fuzzy Undercling, where you are basically level with the draw if you fall. I'm guessing that this would have to be a moderate route, so that lots of people get on it maybe an 11? I'd also guess that this would be with crux moves well above the bolt, so people don't just downclimb back to the bolt, but actually get up there and ping. What bolt has taken the most lead falls? How many would that be?

I've seen a bunch on "In to the light" going for the chains but that hasn't been around all that long

an 11 is moderate? man, I'm old. my guess...going to the chains on Chainsaw.

i'd guess it'd be on sunshine or moonbeam... whichever one is on the left... and toward the top. I've seen countless folks whip there.

Might be harder routes, so maybe fewer people on them, but they also get many goes a day. All in the running:

Crux bolts on gung ho, tissue tiger, table of colors, Bandoler, last bolt of wadcutter, last bolt on chainsaw, etc.

I bet Ro Shampo is right up there to
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I bet the last bolt on AWOL has taken quite a lot of falls.

We should start logging all the falls on all the bolts. That way we will know for sure. We can keep a tin at the base of each climb just like a summit register!

I think the bolts probably need to be replaced after every tenth fall. Unless, of course, they came unscrewed first. Dang, did I just say that?

I think the bolt below the crux of Wild Yet Tasty sees it's share of action...