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Hardest Trad Route Yet?!
Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 11:14 pm
by Andy
An inspiring ascent of a trad line possibly harder than the hardest sport route sent in the Red to date went down in Scotland! The climber was Dave Macleod and the route was the extension to Requiem. I love it when limits are pushed and boundaries broken. Climbing reports that he took 8 or so 50 foot whips on thin pro (a nut)... He's either crazy and doesn't care or pushing his mental limits as well as physical.
Check it out:
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/macleodrequiem/
Just thought I'd spew some spray for those who are also inspired by high end climbing exploits...
Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 11:56 pm
by pigsteak
wow.
Posted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 2:11 am
by Paul3eb
i saw that earlier and immediately thought about how much time i'm not training and then about how much time i can start to spend training.. that type of mental capacity along with pushing yourself physically..and pushing the bounds of the sport/activity/hobby today..
why am i typing and not training?
Posted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 3:50 am
by DJMike
There was an old aid line that some guy did on trad and renamed to iron monkey. I dont remeber who it was, I think it is located in Eldorado Canyon's Kloof Alcove, but he rated it at 5.14. All I can say to these guys is, wow.
update: it was Matt Segal
Posted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 12:07 pm
by dhoyne
I don't like running out trad gear 15 feet, let alone 50.
Posted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 12:15 pm
by Paul3eb
dhoyne wrote:I don't like running out trad gear 15 feet, let alone 50.
that'd probably get you about a forty-footer with stretch and catch.. his fall was fifty feet, not his runout.. not that take away any from the size of his.. err.. mental fortitude
Posted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 2:11 pm
by haas
DJMike wrote:There was an old aid line that some guy did on trad and renamed to iron monkey. I dont remeber who it was, I think it is located in Eldorado Canyon's Kloof Alcove, but he rated it at 5.14. All I can say to these guys is, wow.
update: it was Matt Segal
Daniel Woods repeated it right after he heard that Segal was proposing 5.14a. It was quickly downgraded to 5.13c, not that that isn't still really strong or anything.
Posted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 7:44 pm
by Andy
Paul3eb wrote:
why am i typing and not training?
Exactly my thoughts. Hearing/reading about crazy hard climbing exploits always motivate me to get out and try hard... even when what I'm straining at is hardly a warm up for those with the "mental fortitude" of Macleod. Man, and reading about exploits like these AND having this beautiful weather really makes me itch to grab some rock!
Posted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 8:12 pm
by pigsteak
it is already too hot...i want winter again.
Posted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 8:25 pm
by SCIN
I hear ya dude. The holds will soon be beyond optimal.