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So here's something I am trying to figure out. We went to a new area this weekend (at least new to us). And while there I saw a particularly cool looking route (graded at let's say 12a, where I'm usually comfortable in the low 11's). I thought, well it's above my limit, but it looks cool and the falls are clean, so what the hell.

I got on it and sent it with 2 hangs. It felt great! And I was thinking to myself, "ok now I know the moves I bet I could send this." Later, after recovering, someone needed to clean it so I thought, "Here's my chance, I'll give it another go and send this thing clean." I got on it again and struggled, flailing through every move, basically climbing bolt to bolt. In short it spanked me.

By consensus of the group, I climbed cleaner and smarter on lead than on TR. I am reallly confused.

Anyone else experienced this?

My guess is that is has something to do with expectations, adrenaline, and fatigue. But I'm not sure.

I nearly always climb better on lead - my lead level and TR level are the same - sport and trad. TR'ing (steep) sport routes can be harder then leading them sometimes because the rope can get in the way.

i usually care less and am less precise with my thoughts and placements (hand and feet) when i'm on tr because of the commitment factor: it's not there. on lead, you're either focused and on or you're taking a decent fall. on tr, who cares? dyno for everything for that matter. it's not like you're going anywhere. the worst you're going to get is a little sore around the leg loops.

Second go is usually worse than first. But I also climb harder on lead, more focused.

def. climb harder on lead.........u pucker up on lead and concentrate more

kek-san,

Go back and give the route another try. Do a few warm ups, 2 maybe 3 and then have at it with at least two good attempts. You'll probably suprise yourself, and then if you like the climb enought you'll start to bond with it, figure out exactly how to grab holds and where to put your feet. THis is what makes working a route fun, progress and learning, about yourself and the rock. THis will also help you get stronger and push up the grades. Have fun and get psyched.

There was never any question as to wether I would get back on it. It was a hoot. Just the odd sensation of climbing better and harder on lead than on TR. First time I have been concious of it. Probably not the first time it happened.

Next time I won't be expecting a send, just working it. But I'll be back on lead, so there is some chance . I think I agree with the others, the combo of the pucker factor, focus on foot and hand placement, and actively resting and planning seem to be adding to my climbing on lead.

What route was is it. I want to know so I can downgrade it to make myself fell better.




If you did that good first try, you should definitley be able to send soon.

then others say the pucker factor makes you over grip, depleting your reserves and actually making a person climb worse...

I usually climb harder on TR because I am scared to fall (my first fall on lead I shattered both ankles on a ledge and now am totally crippled with chronic pain). So, if I clip a bolt and feel like I could fall between there and the next bolt--I usually end up having a take to be sure that I won't fall. Climbing like that totally sucks and blocks my progress. I am learning to fall at the Lode because I won't hit my feet, but I still only feel like I can fall there with certain belayers.

So..since you do not have smashed, painful, fused ankles, I recommend that you lead all of the time and you will progress a lot faster.