RRC Archives

Stones of Years, 2nd Ed. 1990 wrote:The ethics of "rap bolting" have been argued thoroughly and virulently in nearly every climbing magazine published within the last five years. I do not intend to reiterate the debate here. Consult any of these publications for the details, substitute the "Red River Gorge" for "Yosemite," "Hueco Tanks," etc., and you'll have a good approximation of the situation. The upshot locally is that "rap bolted" routes are non de rigeur. The reason is that climbers of all levels are overwhelmingly opposed to them. The reasoning is that in and area with inexhaustible potential for natural lines well within the current ability of many climbers, it is both arrogant and stupid to begin exhausting a future resource at this time. Any "rap bolt" routes that do appear are considered fair game for removal. To be fair, a small amount of articulate dissent has been voiced by the individuals who are interested in the vast face-climbing potential of the area. But routes such as Whimpering Insanity, Zimbabwae, Shiver Me Timbers, Into the Void Direct, 5.11 Jimmy, and Pulling Pockets are all adventurous, bolted face climbs done in a style that is beyond rebuke.