Re-equipping routes

Post by **Sunshine** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 10:02 pm

This is a serious question for the sport climbing community. I talked with a guy named Porter today and asked him if I could "re-arrange" a few of the bolts on Henry (to take the weird swinging fall from the second bolt out). He asked me to present this issue to the climbing community on this site. So what do you guys think?

Post by **Yasmeen** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 10:26 pm

Hell yeah! I'd get on that route if the rumored scary falls were removed.

Post by **SCIN** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 10:33 pm

I was just talking about how exciting that line is the other day. I love the fear factor of it but that's just me. It would definitely be safer with rearranged bolts.

Post by **haas** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 10:55 pm

my wife Sarah took several huge whippers on that route. She was right next to the third bolt and couldn't clip it because it was a bit too far to the right. Really f*ed up her leg on the last fall. It's a bit scary as far as sport routes go, and I generally like to leave routes as they are, but I think rearranging this route would make it way safer and more people would get on this fun route.

Post by **merrick** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 10:57 pm

i would like it more with the bolts fixed. I have taken the fall and wasn't hurt but it wasn't super fun. prime directives fall is scary but clean. the one on henry is scary and has real potential for injury.

yas, you would crush that route, scary falls or not.

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 11:27 pm

i prefer the bolts as is. it's part of what makes henry be hen-ry!...but since everyone is so concerned about other climbers and the "community" i'm sure it will get rebolted to suit everyones needs. maybe install a concrete ramp so handicap people in wheelchairs can do it while you're at it?

Post by **john e aragon** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 12:31 am

i think if you are going to take the time to install bolts then you should make the route as safe as possible, without dramaticly altering the rock. i know it takes time and money to equip a sport route, but i fell you are wasteing your time if no else will climb the route if it is dangerous. those seeking danger can always not clip the bolts!

Post by **chriss** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 1:04 am

leave them as is, it adds to the excitement of the route.

Post by **RRO** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 1:47 am

This route is what it is to some extent because of the fall potential. I think that in general if a route is a "sport" route then it should be safe as possible. Sometimes it is rock climbing and things could happen. There are so many routes in the Red and pretty much every climbing area that have no fall positions and clips. If a "sport" route presents a death fall then it needs fixed for sure but many people have taken that fall and walked away just fine. What about the fall on Prime Directive the start of No Place Like Home, Toxic Avenger, Chemical Imbalance and so many more. Some of these routes have worse fall potential than Henry. I say keep it as is. You cant dumb down every route for the lowest person on the totem pole.

Anyone developing now should have enough information and posses the skills to analyze past mistakes/problems and use that to develop "sport" routes as safe as possible. If the route is mixed or trad its climb at own risk and sometimes even a sport route is what it is and you may need to take more than your gym honed tendons and sticky shoes to send.

Post by **haas** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 3:21 am

Tackett, you make a convincing arguement. I was thinking along those lines originally, but kept seeing Sarah taking those whippers. I change my opinion, keep the route as is. Sarah is stronger now, she should suck it up and relead it.