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Trad Climbing at the Red
Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2003 6:40 pm
by CPower
I'm planning a trip to the Red in March and would appreciate any info on
Trad climbing there.I don't know anyone who's been down there so I don't
know what to expect.I am a solid 5.8 leader who climbs mostly in New Hampshire and Up-state New York,any comparisons?
Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2003 1:09 am
by ynot
Lots of good trad here.It's sandstone. I have been working the 8 s for a year and havent done 1/4 of the 2 and 3 star routes.Maybe you can hookup with team Jedi.Check the weather icon up above before you make final plans.It could be rainy in march.
Red River Trad
Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2003 1:58 am
by CPower
Thanks for the tip on the weather.We're pretty open to traveling elsewheres in the south if need be.The way our winter is shaping up in the
N.E. we won't be rock climbing until may
That just won't do!Do you guys find the sandstone reliable for holding leader falls?are nut placements
easy to get or is it a lot of jiggery-cammery for pro?my only experience with sandstone was in ut. and over protecting was common practice.Thanks again.
Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2003 3:02 am
by SCIN
Check out the guide if you need it:
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuideV2/
The trad here rocks.
Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2003 4:45 am
by dipsi
Team Jedi welcomes you!
Posted: Fri Jan 31, 2003 8:27 pm
by tomdarch
Don't be scared off by Autum's current 5.9- grade. I didn't think it was an issue of there being a 5.9 move, but rather that it's wiggy to get yourself to undercling/smear out under a flake, then throw for the top of the flake (and hope your feet don't cut!) It has been graded as a 5.8 in the past, if that helps. Great route. Check out:
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... php?id=120
It earns it's reputation as one of the best routes in the Red. Classic. Must do. (Also, the photo on the guide page above doesn't represent it as how I remember it - the photo makes it look harder than I remember!)
Posted: Fri Jan 31, 2003 8:48 pm
by Jeff
How does that photo make it look harder?
Trad in the red
Posted: Sat Feb 01, 2003 9:28 pm
by CPower
Hey Tomdarch,Thanks for the tip,the Autumn crack looks great!I'm taking down any suggestions people have for routes so...
Also the guide is freakin amazing,I,ve already picked out the best crags
relative to my lead ability and have found way more STARRED routes than
I could possibly do in two weeks.Also starting AID climbing this year so if
anybody has good C1 or C2 climbs to do in the area,I'm all ears.In fact,
we,ll be bouldering and sport climbing too,so much to climb...
You guys are great,hope I can return the favor someday!
Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2003 3:09 am
by t bone
Autumn is one of the straight forward 5.9s in the red beware of the old school 5.8+ or 5.9+ routes they are a little harder.
Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2003 8:26 pm
by CPower
Yeah,we got a similar situation up here as well,lot's of sandbag 7's and
8's put up in the 40's by Weissner and friends.Does your local Guidebook
give first ascent names and dates?These can be good clues to a routes
comparative difficulty,when that doesn't work I fall back(sometimes litterally)on the Ol' "comin down" technique.I'm a seasoned chicken.Thanks
for the warning.