RRC Archives

You ever have an "ah-ha!" moment in climbing?
This past year has had 2 moments for me that lead me to believe I'm not a lost cause yet.

1. working the Scoop at Rocktown. (Which let's be honest, is different problem for short people than those who are tall.)

I haven't gotten it yet but walking up to it Charlie said to me, "Just send it. Go up and send it." So got on, set up and to my great surprise I actually JUMPed. All four points moving me closer to a goal. For those unfortuante enough to boulder with me in the past know that I am not a dynamic climber but I actually touched my next hold and had it for all .5 of a second. And as my body was hurtling itself back to the ground my thought was, "This dynamic stuff is FUN!" I think it was the encouragement to let go of the mentality of "good night is that move long" to just enjoy the way that helped.

2. high balls and keepin' it cool. Again, those unfortunate to boulder with me know I hate heights, in fact I'll go outta of my way to avoid them but recently I've been pushing myself and it has been surprising to not freak out at the top. Not that I haven't been scared or nervous but I haven't been edgy. It's a more productive awareness, I think.

So 05 was a good learning year for me despite my lack of time to climb. I know those are 2 basics for many but definite progression points for me. Maybe I've gotten more focused on appreciating the time I have had. More so I've gotten to watch and climb with some amazing people. Thank you for that, sincerely, I hope that you know who you are.

It's cool to have jumps forward either physical or mental in climbing. Let's see how this translate on leading!

Any one else have distinct moments they'd like to share?

I don't know when it happened or what caused it, but I calmed down and stopped stressing over sends. I used to get so sick to my stomach and would "shake so much that I thought the rock was going to explode" (Jamen).

The whole summer and fall saw a more eager and easier going Stephanie. Friends have commented on the difference and their appreciation. I stopped being scared, started loving every move of a climb and more so, feel I can tell better jokes while waiting around to climb instead of mind-climbing the route over and over. Climbing defines me, but accomplishment no longer does. It made me stronger too ... physically and mentally.

Of course, I still have my moments ... I blame PMS though.

climbing took a less significant role in my life in '05. I used to HAVE TO climb, and would sometimes climb with people that I might not normally choose to climb with--just for the sake of climbing. Now I only climb if the people I want to be with, my friends, are climbing. I don't often care anymore what crag we are going to, or what I send or don't send. It's about so much more than that for me now.

..that climbing just isn't that important and that I can live without it..

is that the cliff notes version of what I posted?

That I really dig climbing without a spot. Weird, but I showed up to a couple climbing areas to meet people and climbed alone for a few hours each time. I had to yell for people twice at the LRC comp to make sure they saw me do a problem. Kinda nice to just chill and work things on your own, freedom from expections (and pads) is a groovy thing sometimes. I also dig the feeling you get from highballs. Maybe that's from all the trad years but keeping your mind together when you have to is a very satisfying thing.

I also figured out that the Red is an amazing place! I'm jazzed to start working on things here again. So many excellent people and so many cool climbs I've started to think maybe I've been away for long enough.

I don't know. I think in the last couple years it has really dawned on me that I want my life in general, and climbing specifically, to be about community and relationships. Climbing a more challenging route does build confidence and self-efficacy, but it's important to share that with someone else. I'm not talking spray... I'm talking "Cool. well done, now what does that mean to you?"

Like the other day when i did some arete up around morehead... the idea that I can't even start this problem became maybe I can... then became i think it'll probably go... then finally i was standing on top. This made me feel good about myself yes, and has implications and transference to other issues of life. But sharing that with someone else was very important, because all the self worth in the world won't get you chicks... or a good job... or a close knit group of friends.

My girl just left for 3 months in california. Our friends have been awesome about not letting me be lonely. They call me up and ask how I'm doing... they invite me over for authentic curry chicken then call me the next day to see if I survived the night.

So maybe I sent a hard boulder problem, but I have more pride in the fact that my non-climber friends want to hear about what makes me tick, and that they like me even though I'm crazy about this sport. And I want to hear about them too and what really drives them. And I love it that my climber friends talk about more than just climbing and beer.

I had an epic adventures this summer with two good friends that showed me that support and relationships are the most important part of climbing, and the thing that I'll remember the longest about that trip. Already the moves of the climb are fading, but the bond with friends is strengthening.

Spiritually I learned that you can climb all the routes or boulder problems in the world with out satisfying a far deeper hunger... that my accomplishments mean far less than who I am, and I should not measure who I am by what I have done, but by the friends I have made, the love I have shared, and by what I have given to others.

Physically I learned that 33 doesn't mean that you can't still learn to climb harder, but that you really have to start thinking about stretching. And take another rest day.

Apparently, I have yet to learn to be brief.

JB

Like a few others I have learned that I am stronger than I think I am, I just have to release my mental limitations. I need to re-learn what it means to do hard moves when I am pumped and just go for it. I seem to hold back alot and not give my full effort. 06 has the possibility of being a good year.

I don't have a really distinct moment but instead a general feeling of the whole year.

I've become more obsessed than ever about getting stronger during the past year. I think it has a lot to do with having a gym in my backyard now. I now have the necessary tools to perform the type of training I feel it will take for me to get where I want to be as far as strength goes. I'm climbing more and feel stronger than I ever have since I started climbing. I've always felt like I had decent endurance so I don't get psyched to work on it. It's boring to me too to work endurance. Enduro routes are becoming less appealing than they used to be. My only interest now is power. Endurance is just the after-birth of power.

I had an "ah-HA!" moment this past year. It was when I started flirting with .12+ sport routes. I never thought I'd be sending routes that I could only belay Ray on in the past. I think I still don't even try routes that I could be getting on. It's something I definitely need to work on.