RRC Archives

This year I’m planning to get serious about my training. I feel pretty good about my overall fitness level and my technique seems pretty good. I feel confident on the steep jug hauls where the crux is endurance but I suck on bouldery power routes, and my bouldering level in general is pretty low. I think my finger strength seems to be the weak link. I’ve not bouldered very much in the past, so this winter I’m going to focus on that. I plan to boulder two or three times a week. I would also like to include some other types of strength training for my fingers like hangboard and campus training. I was wondering if anyone has any information they would like to share regarding power training. What are your methods for campus and hangboard training? How often during each week should you train to allow for recovery? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Also, anyone out there willing to set some boulder problems for me? I tend to set problems that I can do. I need some harder problems to work on this winter.

I have an "Eggserciser". It's shaped like an egg and made of rubber. They come in different stiffness'. I like this because you can focus on each finger or grouping of fingers. I also do fingertip pull ups.

Todd,
if you are willing to make the trip, come check out my wall. If you have a wall, I would love to come set some stuff on it for you. Just let me know.

Matt

Thanks Matt. I would like to come over for a bouldering session for sure. I have wall in my spare bed room. It’s not very big, but it’s all I have right now. I do have a new set of pusher holds that I bought a few years ago.

Thanks CWG. I will check out the Eggserciser. Just ordered the number 1 and number 2 captains of crush grippers from ironmind today also.

Todd, you might want to get the trainer rather then the #2. I can close the 1, but can't touch the 2 (something like 185 pounds?) The trainer I can do reps with, and it makes a good warm up.

Will do. thanks Wes.

Todd, try taining your core. You'd be surprised how much power comes really from your core(abs/back) rather than your fingers/forearms. If you have never done much or any bouldering before I would be careful not to do to much to quickly. It's easy to over do it and end up injured. Start out slow and take at least two full rest days after one hard bouldering session. Over training on plastic is what cause all of my finger, elbow and shoulder injuries.

I recently made some campus rungs for my 45deg wall and have seen some wicked improvements over the last two months. Just don't overdo it and injure yourself. I cut a 2x4 down the middle at an angle and used a big radius router bit for the edge then sanded. Very friendly on the fingers and a little slopey as well. If you have access to woodworking equipment, it's very easy to make your own set out of a $4 2x4.

Thanks for the info guys. I know what you mean about over doing it. I injured my elbow a few years ago and it took over 8 months for it to heal. So I will only boulder inside a few days a week. Now, what about outdoors. Do you guys go two days or more in a row? I was thinking of bouldering this weekend in the Red and Clack if possible. I can climb sport two days straight, but never tried it with bouldering.

Well for me I can usually boulder outdoors two days in a row bacause it's usually not as hard on me as plastic. Bloody finger tips usually stops me from bouldering outdoors more than two days in a row.