RRC Archives

Inspired by the guidebook(s), CM and I climbed The Quest yesterday afternoon.

That first pitch roof/slot was cool. We thought that bit was as hard as Waverly Wafer... and the old 'Stones of Years' guide called that section 9+!!!... mercy.

The second pitch dihedral was really nice. A little wet here and there... but definitely the best pitch on the route.

The infamous third pitch was indeed a bear. My offwidth technique isn't up to par (not that it's ever been)... I think I had to rest on most pieces. Thank God it was only 20 feet long.

Ray, I apologize ahead of time, but I couldn't resist...

The online guide suggests that this route is "Probably one of the best routes for the grade in the southeast." Man, you guys need to hike around the southeast a bit more before making a statement like that. Your allowed your opinion (even if it's cliche), but I've done tons of 5.10s in the south that are better...

The Quest is a good route, not a great route. We're glad we "climbed" it. But in my opinion, it's unique only because it's long...

And BTW, to those who are thinking of going up there, you need at least two 60M ropes to get off... We had a 50M and a 70M which left me high and dry about 40 feet above the ground, hanging in space. Thankfully the 70M was long enough for me to lock off the short rope and feed the long one through my device... Otherwise I would've been in prussick rope-climbing hell.

I just took that statement out of the online guide. I was probably caught up in my own world when I wrote that. It should've read "Probably one of the most unique and enjoyable trad lines for its grade in the Red".

The Quest is unique for the Red for sure and for us craggers it is a cool experience to get up so high and hang on hanging belays and stuff. It's definitely my favorite line in the Red just because it takes me to different places and has a little bit of everything in it (hands, fingers, fists, offwidth, tiptoes). I hope my excitement didn't lead you guys into wasting a day of climbing.

Everyone I've taken on that thing had an awesome experience and everyone I've told to go do it seemed to really enjoy it. So I wasn't basing my opinion on just my own experience. Plus, I'm in love with offwidth climbing and techy face climbs and most people around here dislike that stuff so my opinions kind of suck for most people. That's why I created the star rating system in the online guide.....so that for the real guidebook I was using not my own opinion but the average of others.

Personally, I think the Quest is one of the best multipith lines in the south because of the variety the route has to offer. You get roofs, hands, thin/technical climbing, and offwidth. And the exposure at the hanging belay below the OW section is just rad. I've climbed all around the southeast from the OR on Whitesides to the heady exposure at Moore's and the Quest stands out in my memory as being one of the best experiences I've ever had on a route. Of course, this is just my opinion based on my own experience but I agree with its description. I think for the all around trad climber, this route would blow them away. However, if you're a climber who just likes splitter hand cracks, then no, this route probably isn't for you.

Maybe it wasn't so much fun for you because the third pitch gave you so much trouble? Hands down, that third pitch was the longest 20 ft of my life but I took from the experience the desire to get better at off-width.

Man, now I just want to get back on that thing! *drool*

SCIN wrote:"Probably one of the most unique and enjoyable trad lines for its grade in the Red."

I would absolutely agree with that. We had a good time... not a wasted day. The last pitch worked me over pretty good (I knew it would) but I still had fun wrestling with it... man the profanity was flying...

SCIN, I was just giving you a hard time since I got the same a while back...

hanging on gear..is that still called climbing after Caldwell's recent exploits?

(just asking..I ain't a trad daddy, so no need to flame.)

Congratulations! You've joined a pretty short list of people that have done this line. Like you, I weighted gear on the last pitch when Ed and I did it. It's a fine route for the Red for sure.

pigsteak wrote:hanging on gear..is that still called climbing after Caldwell's recent exploits?

(just asking..I ain't a trad daddy, so no need to flame.)

I don't understand....what exploits?

Check out the "Proudness" thread in the More Climbing! section of the online forum.

Definitely unique for The Red and not a waste of a day but I won't be going back. It was cool to climb something originally done so long ago and still have it be challenging in 2005 but it's nothing to go crazy about. Before recommending it to someone else I'll be sure I know just what kind of experience they're looking for.
I'm going to have to agree with Astroman that there are lots of other routes in the East that are far better. Climbs in NC, Tennessee, The New, and The Gunks come to mind. As far as The Red goes, B3 is much, much better and quite a bit easier.

8)