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Soul Ram
Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 12:36 pm
by One-Fall
Anyone who has been on this, can you please tell me what strengths it plays to? How about quality of movement as well as the quality of the rock?
Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 12:39 pm
by Wes
Killer route - very techy. Great movement, but a little bit harsh on the tips. I thought it was tough for the grade.
Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 1:36 pm
by SCIN
Sketchy lead. Tough clips. Relentless. No rests. Scary ending. Great line.
Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 1:38 pm
by haas
I thought it was a little hard fo the grade too, but super fun. I normally don't like vert, techy crimp routes, but this one was good. I think the top is hard to onsight
Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 2:40 pm
by the lurkist
Odyssey route. It just keeps coming at you all the way to the anchors. 12c.
Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 6:02 pm
by One-Fall
How does it compare to other 12b's (c's) out there? Orange Juice, Out on a Limb, Rifleman, etc . . .
Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 7:29 pm
by SCIN
Harder. Not sure about OOAL though. I hear that thing is sick.
Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 8:37 pm
by the lurkist
Harder than OJ by a damn site. Not as hard as OOAL. That thing is old school 12d. I heard of a Porter route over in the NRG that is similar- Libertine. I hear that it is classic 4 star 12d. I think of that and OOAL as the technical vert 12+ standard bearer.
Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 9:07 pm
by SCIN
Does Libertine have the Porter hangers on it?
Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 11:53 pm
by the lurkist
I don't know. I bet not. He did it right before he moved over here the early 90's. I am guessing he had real hangers on it. I heard from Russ Clune (who repeated it not long after it was done) and someone else (in Fayetteville) that it has seen very few repeats- which makes me compare it to OOAL - done about the same time and the same grade and both dead vert. I saw a picture of PJ on it back then in one of the Mags. He was enpointe - that is, very tips on toes on unseeable holds and fingers pimping on viscious micro crimps, elbows all tweaked out in the pumped elbow flare. The thing looked sick.
Speaking of rarely repeated routes, I also heard his "Get thee Behind me Satan" has rarely been repeated. It is right next to a Doug Reed 13b (?name). Both close to Libertine and Quinsana.
Maybe I am smackng my meat a bit here, but I think the standard those guys set was really high. Another like route is Doug Reed's "Fair Hope" at Rumbling Bald up at the hanging chain wall. 13b, maybe repeated 2-3 times.