That's enough of this Beene shit.
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2005 3:52 pm
When I saw in the new guide that this route was closed I was pretty bumbed but to my surprise it isn't actually behind the fence at all. It had so much sand in the crack it doesn't seem like it's been touched since the FA. I managed to clean a good amount of the sand out on lead. I think it's a pretty classic hard sustained stemming route. At one point I was so trashed that I had completely given up except for the fact I was to afraid to let go run out at night on a small alien. A desparate throw got me a thumb down jam. Another throw got me another thin jam but I was so trashed I was still about to come off. I finally was able to make the jam solid and was saved. I rapped off an ancient micro nut and left another nut for backup. Bring a sling to equalize the nuts for a solid anchor. With small cams I don't think this route is R.