Harder than your husband

Post by **Stewy911** » Sun Oct 16, 2005 10:40 pm

Dking and I got on this and I pretty much aided through the crux. I felt like I was no where close. Seems like just a one or two move wonder than 10 climbing to the top. I would like to hear how people pull the roof off that bomber jam. I couldnt see the move at all.

Post by **ynot** » Sun Oct 16, 2005 10:55 pm

I watched Styx work that thing one day. It sounded like he was giving birth. When he fell off I yelled IT"S A BOY! good times.

Post by **corduroy** » Sun Oct 16, 2005 11:47 pm

you can climb the 8 next to it and set up a toprope - not that its any easier that way - wicked hard problem

Post by **Stewy911** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 12:02 am

yea its pretty easy to put up a rope o the climb and u can aid thorugh the crux plug and pull. but id love to be able to do that move i think its a wicked hard move.

Post by **haas** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 12:36 am

traverse out the good ledge with bad feet to reach the lip. I place a .75 camalot in the roof then go left into the locker handjam. I then hand foot match my right foot and hand and drop knee giving me a ton of height and reaching into the finger lock with the right hand. Some people match hands in the hand jam crack, whatever works for you. I then stand up more on the right foot and bump the right hand up the crack. Once you are standing up on the foot, go left hand to the ledge and it's pretty much over from there. I only place two pieces before the chains. A note about the TR, it's super easy to set up if you climb VOD first, but beware of ropestretch and slack out. The ground is real close to the crux and decking is a possibility while still underneath the roof. Hope this helps

Post by **Paul3eb** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 1:38 am

kind of the same beta.. left hand in locker jam, feet on last block of the traverse. i slot a huge right hand handjam (thumb into the crack), left foot on block, bump my left hand up the crack until i hit the top of the finger crack, switch feet, right hand above the left in a crappy jam, bump the right hand out to the left (which is a jug) and then it's essentially over. make sure your gear is pretty solid under the roof..

Post by **Stewy911** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 1:39 am

sounds so easy

Post by **Gaar** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 2:50 am

A BD .4 in the back corner of the wall works great as a dirctional and keeps your partners ass out of your face. once they get the move take it out for drag purpose

I go Left hand back to bomber jam, right hand foot match on ledge, Right hand thumbs down just above left hand (so your hand kinda make a T shape) Left hand high finger lock in the same crack (dont go to the one on the oppisite wall), rock a little and chuck right handed for the jug.

Good luck

Post by **Eric** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 1:12 pm

what he said. It would be such a great boulder problem if the landing weren't so bad. The jams are bomber, you could almost campus the bottom on the jams.

Post by **Stewy911** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 1:36 pm

the jams are too good u could rip out ur shoulder