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Can it be done? How many people out there feel that they are making gains and don't climb plastic? I can't seem to break from my current level to the next, but I rarely climb on plastic and I never boulder (because I can't believe how bad I am at it). Is some ego-shattering plastic pulling what is needed to reach the next level?

Both sides of the argument welcomed.

More power is never a bad thing, eh? If not plastic, then at least campus board. Or try to climb routes a few grades over your limit bolt to bolt. Kinda like bouldering on a rope.

Man, I used to DESPISE (in other words, I really disliked) bouldering, but found that when I focused on bouldering (on plaskit), my route climbing improved 100%. Dave Scott used to get on my case about it all the time and as bad as I hate to say it...he was right. I love it now though and I have my very own bouldering monolith in my garage!

Mj

I think you can be emotionally strong without climbing plastic (though I remain skeptical), but if you want to climb strong, you need to saddle up on some urethane.

As an alternative, you can always quit your job and move to Slade.

--t

Climbing on plastic will certainly help you gain power, but there is no substitute for mileage on real rock if you want to become a better sport climber in the RRG

From looking at your spray list I highly doubt that pumping plastic would help you break through to the next level. Have you made any assessment of what your weaknesses are that may be preventing your improvement? Whatever they are you need to identify and then work on them. If you plan on coming to Rocktoberfest this weekend you should talk to Arno & sign up for his clinic. One of the best things that I ever did to improve my climbing was to take a private lesson from Jason & Tiffany Campbell. They pointed out my weaknesses and gave me specific exercises to work on them. Any input you could get on your technique from people climbing at a higher level than you is very valuable.

Maybe you should cut back on the two six packs of Ale-8/week.

I checked out the spray list also You and I climb at, er, different levels, but what's working for me is a base on plastic, and then when I get on real rock, I can really feel an improvement. For you it might be the reverse: you mostly climb on rock, but if you add some gym/bouldering it could help.

One thing Horst promotes is periodizing your training. For endurance and power-endurnace, the Red is the place. But for working periods of pure power, you might need to hit the gym or go bouldering.

Do you take breaks from climbing? For Horst's cycle it's 9 weeks on, 1 week off of climbing completely. Once in a while, it's good to take a few weeks or even a couple of months off. Your body can heal and you'll come back fresh and potentially re-energized. I hate breaks - I usually come back a little weaker, but I feel like I can link movement better - something 'settled in' in my brain. I talked to one guy this weekend who said he was plateaued at V6, did a six or nine month deployment on an aircraft carrier (nothing but the weight room and fantasizing about climbing), and was sending V9 pretty soon after he got back.

More power is a good thing. Esp. when you are working on those hard 12's and easy 13's. The power to knock out v6 boulder problems means you can do the v4 - v5 crux moves while pumped way easier. So, start bouldering, or just start trying mid to hard 5.13's.

I didn't slimb on plastic for a year. Not because of some moral stance but because there is no gym in Lex. While I did get out quite a bit I had my best year of climbing. I also think it is alot easier to get hurt on plastic. But I would also say if I had the oppurtunity I would boulder inside on a regular. Boy I doubt that helped at all.