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Short TR

Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2003 7:04 pm
by Huggybone
Got back from Bishop last sunday.

That place is frekin great.
Drove 24 hours with 5 other people.
Camped at the pit.
Went to happy boulders.
Repeat 5x.

One day, when I thought all my climbing mojo was gone, I decided to leave the nest that is the happy boulder, and walk up the canyon. I really did intend to hike, but alas, I could not get past a problem. Literally, I could not walk past it. THere were three people at the base, working it. I asked if I could step in. I styled the first half, got through the crux, and, realizing the height, started flipping. One, out of happiness for sending (I had worked the peoblem the day before, with no succes), and two, out of fear because the next move actually requied some thought, and went higher at the same time.

"Got me?" I ask nervously.
"We got ya"

I topped out and came back down. They started working the peoblem. one of the guys goes- 'Come on merrick. You got it'


!!!!!!!

I pondered the younder, wondering where I knew that name from.
"Say, are you guys from Chicago?"

"yeah, how'd you know?"

"I'm Huggybone."

Turns out it was Yoko, Merric and Colt45, From climbkentucky.com.

Small world.

It was like the mojo from the red passed from them, unto me, allowing me to send my hardest problem of the trip.

The red has the mojo.

Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2003 7:08 pm
by SCIN
Ha. That's pretty damn cool.
Small world.

Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2003 7:10 pm
by Guest
That's the best "small world" story I've heard in a looooong time! Very cool.

Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2003 7:54 pm
by merrick
his trip report is better than mine. :(

it was an awesome send. and using peter's beta colt45 did the problem right after him. next time i am back there it is going down, but only after i nail the project that is slowly eating away at my soul.

Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2003 7:57 pm
by Wes
Did you use the heel hook? I hit the jug once, but couldn't hang on. Next time for sure.

Wes

Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2003 8:04 pm
by merrick
88keys used a different heel hook. he crossed to the hold below the crimps and then opened up to a hold out right. matched toe hooks, heeled on the slopey thing beneath the crimps. bumped his right hand up and then went for the jug.

i would like to get the problem both with and without the crimps someday.

Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2003 6:19 pm
by Huggybone
I diddn't use the crimps. With the double toe hook, doing the crux move wasn't that bad. Going out to the sidepull above, THAT was the scary part.