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Closed Project above Kokopeli's Dream, Muir Valley
Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 4:47 pm
by enlighten_me
I was climbing the pinnacle there, and noticed the route continued so I gave it a try. It look pretty finished, except the top of the pinnacle was dirty, so I did a little cleaning up there. Campused the roof part, but couldn't get to the bolt above the roof. Is the move a far reach, is the route finished, and is the climb supposed to be multi-pitch? Thanks.
Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 4:52 pm
by J-Rock
The climb is not yet finished and it has not yet been cleaned or completely bolted. (Some of the bolts are just rivets and smack downs). That is why it says "Closed Project".
Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 5:05 pm
by enlighten_me
Yeah, wasn't listed in the book and there wasn't any red tape on the bolt, plus I didn't have the online guide on me... I was asking Rick Weber about some good roofs too, and he was telling me to check out a whole ton of new climbs in that area, so I assumed it was all good.
Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 5:06 pm
by J-Rock
Cool, that's J.J.'s route. I will let him know that it needs a red tag. I've climbed it and it is wild and exciting. It will probably go at 5.11d or so and it is incredibly steep and fun.
Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 5:51 pm
by chriss
It's a great looking route! I'm excited to get on it when its finished.
Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 5:53 pm
by J-Rock
Yeah, me too! The real crux is up high on the route (after the big roof).
Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 6:23 pm
by enlighten_me
So is the move at the roof a big campus to a far crimp at the upper right? I'm saying it's big and far 'cuz I'm not a tall climber.
Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 8:03 pm
by corduroy
thats one of the big moves
this is a scary (fun) route
should be a wicked lead when its all completed and ready for the masses
JJ has one hell of an eye for routes like this
Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 10:49 pm
by J-Rock
Basically we stood on the top of the pinnacle and tiptoed over to the crimps under the roof... from there you lean back, step off of the pinnacle and cross to a nice flat edge. Then you campus out a few moves until you are at the lip of the roof on an enormous jug. The next move is a long campus move to a sloper (or another good jug if you go big). Then pull your feet up and around the roof and shake out because there is an interesting boulder problem above followed by a good rest on an exposed ledge to another crux just below the anchors. I can't wait to get back on it!
Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 4:22 pm
by enlighten_me
Yeah, the move from the lip of the roof was what I was referring to and am dreaming about now. I'm back mid-October - will the route be open by then?